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  • WA Mtnhunter
    replied
    Originally posted by crm3006 View Post
    Don't think you will get any benefit out of fire X number of rounds, clean, fire X number of rounds, etc. as far as accuracy is concerned. I've done that, and also just zeroed a scope and commenced fire, and can't tell any difference either way.
    As to the SSTs, I say if it works, don't fix it! I shot five does last December with 117 gr. SSTs out of my .25-06, at ranges from 110 to 170 yds, and four out of five were bang-flop. One managed to make it about thirty yds. before laying down.
    Regarding the GMX, I did not have very good luck with their 95% copper bullets. Shot two does with my .243, about three seasons back, and one went down like a ton of bricks. The next one, I shot three times, knocked down, get up, knocked down, get up, knocked down, went to get her right away, and she ran off about 75-80 yds. before expiring. All three holes could have been covered by your hand, through the shoulder and right behind the shoulder. Went to recover the other deer, and she was gone. No blood, no sign, no nothing except scruff marks where she had laid down and kicked. Never did find her. Not a big fan of either the .243 or GMX copper bullets.
    Cram, that makes two of us Happy Trails

    Leave a comment:


  • WA Mtnhunter
    replied
    Originally posted by Amflyer View Post
    My break in for new barrels works well for me:

    First, heat the action and barrel using late-day sunlight from June 6th, filtered through the passenger-side window of a 1967 corvette. Engine size is inconsequential, of course, but chrome side exhaust is of utmost importance.

    With the metal still hot, buff the barrel with a page taken from the book "Something of Value," by Robert Ruark.

    Using a brass jag and Auerhahn feathers, clean the barrel using a peated Single malt whisky. (Make sure it is an Islay malt; none of those new-age peated Speysiders) Clean for exactly three minutes and 27 seconds. I do so to Gordon Lightfoot's "Minstral of the Dawn," which is exactly that length.

    Rinse the barrel with a 50/50 solution of water and Hoppes Number 8. Not 9, but 8. It was only on the market for a few weeks, but it is absolutely necessary.

    Dry the barrel by holding the rifle above your head (with the crown forward) while driving to the range on a 1978 Harley-Davidson Soft Tail.

    Repeat this regimen after every five shots for the first week you have the rifle. I do this to every rifle, and they all shoot 0.1 MOA and are able to take game in the heart at 1000 yards every time, 60% of the time.
    It’ll shoot like a house afire. Just like the islay tastes after the fire is out....

    Leave a comment:


  • DakotaMan
    replied
    Originally posted by Amflyer View Post
    My break in for new barrels works well for me:

    First, heat the action and barrel using late-day sunlight from June 6th, filtered through the passenger-side window of a 1967 corvette. Engine size is inconsequential, of course, but chrome side exhaust is of utmost importance.

    With the metal still hot, buff the barrel with a page taken from the book "Something of Value," by Robert Ruark.

    Using a brass jag and Auerhahn feathers, clean the barrel using a peated Single malt whisky. (Make sure it is an Islay malt; none of those new-age peated Speysiders) Clean for exactly three minutes and 27 seconds. I do so to Gordon Lightfoot's "Minstral of the Dawn," which is exactly that length.

    Rinse the barrel with a 50/50 solution of water and Hoppes Number 8. Not 9, but 8. It was only on the market for a few weeks, but it is absolutely necessary.

    Dry the barrel by holding the rifle above your head (with the crown forward) while driving to the range on a 1978 Harley-Davidson Soft Tail.

    Repeat this regimen after every five shots for the first week you have the rifle. I do this to every rifle, and they all shoot 0.1 MOA and are able to take game in the heart at 1000 yards every time, 60% of the time.
    I like the way you think Amflyer! Well done. If that doesn't get it shooting right, nothing will.

    Leave a comment:


  • Amflyer
    replied
    My break in for new barrels works well for me:

    First, heat the action and barrel using late-day sunlight from June 6th, filtered through the passenger-side window of a 1967 corvette. Engine size is inconsequential, of course, but chrome side exhaust is of utmost importance.

    With the metal still hot, buff the barrel with a page taken from the book "Something of Value," by Robert Ruark.

    Using a brass jag and Auerhahn feathers, clean the barrel using a peated Single malt whisky. (Make sure it is an Islay malt; none of those new-age peated Speysiders) Clean for exactly three minutes and 27 seconds. I do so to Gordon Lightfoot's "Minstral of the Dawn," which is exactly that length.

    Rinse the barrel with a 50/50 solution of water and Hoppes Number 8. Not 9, but 8. It was only on the market for a few weeks, but it is absolutely necessary.

    Dry the barrel by holding the rifle above your head (with the crown forward) while driving to the range on a 1978 Harley-Davidson Soft Tail.

    Repeat this regimen after every five shots for the first week you have the rifle. I do this to every rifle, and they all shoot 0.1 MOA and are able to take game in the heart at 1000 yards every time, 60% of the time.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhjimbo
    replied
    Originally posted by jhjimbo View Post
    I think you mentioned you got a Weatherby. Look on their web site for the recommended break in. It takes 30 rounds to do it completely, but the results are worth it. Close shots with a 25-06 will be devastating.
    I shoot for accuracy, my past time. I have several rifles that shoot 5 shots in one slightly enlarged hole at 100yds. I know, if you can hit a pie plate 3 out of 5 times at 100yd you are happy. To each his own.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhjimbo
    replied
    Originally posted by jhjimbo View Post
    I think you mentioned you got a Weatherby. Look on their web site for the recommended break in. It takes 30 rounds to do it completely, but the results are worth it. Close shots with a 25-06 will be devastating.
    You guys should go to any barrel mfg. you want and read their recommendation for barrel break in.

    Leave a comment:


  • steve182
    replied
    Originally posted by jhjimbo View Post
    I think you mentioned you got a Weatherby. Look on their web site for the recommended break in. It takes 30 rounds to do it completely, but the results are worth it. Close shots with a 25-06 will be devastating.
    A few years ago I bought a semi-custom .257 Roberts from barrelmaker and gunsmith ERShaw. I asked the gentleman I was dealing with about barrel break in. He suggested it is not necessary but since they get so many questions about it they suggest a standard “ shoot once, clean, shoot twice, clean, shoot 3 more, clean, etc”

    Leave a comment:


  • DakotaMan
    replied
    Originally posted by jhjimbo View Post
    I think you mentioned you got a Weatherby. Look on their web site for the recommended break in. It takes 30 rounds to do it completely, but the results are worth it. Close shots with a 25-06 will be devastating.
    jimbo, I've personally shot 7 different 25-06 barrels without breaking them in. They all shot around .1" groups at 100 yards except for my Weatherby Mark V Featherweight that shoots around .7" - 2" depending on the bullet. If you get a better feeling or higher confidence with a special break-in procedure, then I highly advise it. Otherwise, just pick it up and start developing a good load. I'd personally put that break-in time into prepping the cases for accurate shooting (uniform flash holes, turn necks, trim length and weight/sort brass. I have seen occasions where velocities change at about 300 rounds because of barrel wear and then stabilizes for about 5000 rounds.

    Leave a comment:


  • DakotaMan
    replied
    Originally posted by Milldawg View Post
    I have used the SST bullet for several years now. And I've shot several deer under 10 yards with them and a greanade going off inside them is a very accurate description. I know the 25-06 is about 350 fps faster than my .270. Couldn't imagine what a 117 grain SST would do at close range. And I have a .270 SST come apart once. The cup and core separated after passing thru a deer quitting away shot. Found the piece on the far side under hide. But went through the body cavity hit the heart and bust a rib on the exit side went thru the shoulder meat and stopped just on the inside of the hide. So it performed great. Just thinking the monolithic solid would do better for me.
    You are very right Milldawg, the SST at 25-06 velocities pretty well ruins an entire front shoulder. Usually, so bad, you couldn't make soup out of any of it. Of course if your bullet hits high to the rear of the shoulder, every bullet known to mankind works great coming from a 25-06 including the 75g Seirra Varmint bullet at 3750 (although that one leaves a hole you can throw a football through). No reason to risk ruining shoulder meat so that is where I aim every time with a 25-06. You will see that the Hornady 100g Interlock seems to impart the most shock and energy as it hits than any of the bullets I've tried and dead center shoulder shots don't always ruin the front shoulder. I've only recovered two of these 100g Interlocks in probably over 100 deer I've seen shot with them. They almost always go through. One I recovered had penetrated from the rear of a big buck, shattered the pelvis, shattered three ribs on the right and three ribs on the left, penetrated the sternum and was sticking about a half inch out of the chest hide.

    Leave a comment:


  • DakotaMan
    replied
    Originally posted by crm3006 View Post
    Don't think you will get any benefit out of fire X number of rounds, clean, fire X number of rounds, etc. as far as accuracy is concerned. I've done that, and also just zeroed a scope and commenced fire, and can't tell any difference either way.
    As to the SSTs, I say if it works, don't fix it! I shot five does last December with 117 gr. SSTs out of my .25-06, at ranges from 110 to 170 yds, and four out of five were bang-flop. One managed to make it about thirty yds. before laying down.
    Regarding the GMX, I did not have very good luck with their 95% copper bullets. Shot two does with my .243, about three seasons back, and one went down like a ton of bricks. The next one, I shot three times, knocked down, get up, knocked down, get up, knocked down, went to get her right away, and she ran off about 75-80 yds. before expiring. All three holes could have been covered by your hand, through the shoulder and right behind the shoulder. Went to recover the other deer, and she was gone. No blood, no sign, no nothing except scruff marks where she had laid down and kicked. Never did find her. Not a big fan of either the .243 or GMX copper bullets.
    CRM... very good point on the GMX. These bullets can occasionally make a wound channel more like a hypodermic needle or full metal jacket and that is not good. However, at 3500-3600 fps, the expansion and hydrostatic shock of the 25-06 has greater impact than a .243 by far. They will work in that cartridge but I see far superior performance from the bullets I mention in my answer.

    Leave a comment:


  • DakotaMan
    replied
    If I had to get a 25-06 deer load ready fast (or test every .25 caliber bullet in the world and use the best one), I'd use a 100g Hornady lead tipped Interlock bullet over 54.0g of IMR 4831 going 3350 fps in a 26" barrel. Just be careful not to damage the soft lead tip or accuracy will suffer at long range.

    If I expected to need a shot at 400-500 yards, I'd substitute a 100g Sierra Game King (SGK) for a little better long range accuracy and a fantastic expansion at the slower speed you get at that range. The SGK bullet expands too fast (like an SST) at closer range but is OK with a high/back shoulder shot. They kill but make excessive deer burger at that speed. I get over five feet of penetration in big bucks out to 500 yards with the Interlock. I have gotten the same with the SGK at 500 yards but it blows apart after about 1 foot inside the deer at ranges inside of 300 yards. Messy dead deer for sure.

    I have used a variety of 90g bullets over about 55g of IMR 4831 or 50g of IMR 4064 both at 3600 fps in 26" barrels. I've seen two lead 90g bullets blow up on the front shoulder bone of giant bucks (with about 20 successful shots) with no penetration and don't use them any more for that reason. Mono-metal 90g bullets like the Barnes TTSX and the Hornady GMX penetrate well always but sometimes make long narrow wound channels and I've actually seen deer run as far as 60-100 yards after a good hit by one. I like the GMX in terms of accuracy and running deer lead but prefer the 100g for deer above all else. I will use the 90s where I expect mainly running deer shots inside 250 yards (e.g jump shooting deer over prairie washes). At 3600 fps don't ever expect these bullets to penetrate saplings to get to a deer. They will blow up hitting a blade of grass. I once missed a standing still antelope at 250 yards because I actually hit a blade of prairie grass at 220 yards. My brother emptied a magazine full of them shooting at a dumbfounded giant buck standing 20 yards back in the saplings. Not one bullet made it to the buck.

    If I expect shots where the deer will be over 500 yards, I use the 115g Berger over 52g of IMR 4831. This is my 1000 yard prairie dog load and it can pretty well be expected to hit deer in the heart and knock them dead at 700 yards if you and your rifle are made for precision.

    All these loads can be expected to shoot under a half inch at 100 yards in your new rifle with proper neck sizing and case preparation and you will find that few, if any deer move out of their tracks when hit. A deer won't survive a good hit with most hunting bullets coming out of a 25-06 but you won't have to do much tracking with any of the bullets I suggest. I've been testing and tuning 25-06 bullets for over 50 years now and consider these the best available in 25-06. I've shot almost every bullet ever made in that caliber and shot deer with most of them. These worked the best for deer in all of the 25-06s I've shot .

    As a final thought... the 117g Interlock bullet over 57.5g of RL25 is amazingly accurate and totally kills deer on the spot. I just don't shoot it because at 3150 fps it just seems way too slow for me except for long range and it is not as accurate beyond 500 yards as the Berger 115. A great and deadly bullet though.

    My best to you with your new 25-06. I want you to be happy with it so took the time to list several options. Start your loads a little lower and work up as all these are a bit hot as you know all rifles are different. New barrels start out a little tight too.

    By the way, I wouldn't waste time, ammo or barrel life breaking in your new barrel. It will be a little tight for the first 300 rounds so you may have to re-check your load precision at that point but don't be afraid to go for it. The Howa folks know how to make a pretty good barrel and it will likely shoot right out of the box. Just remember to remove copper at 200 rounds (or 100 rounds if you use the GMX bullet).

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest
    Guest replied
    Don't think you will get any benefit out of fire X number of rounds, clean, fire X number of rounds, etc. as far as accuracy is concerned. I've done that, and also just zeroed a scope and commenced fire, and can't tell any difference either way.
    As to the SSTs, I say if it works, don't fix it! I shot five does last December with 117 gr. SSTs out of my .25-06, at ranges from 110 to 170 yds, and four out of five were bang-flop. One managed to make it about thirty yds. before laying down.
    Regarding the GMX, I did not have very good luck with their 95% copper bullets. Shot two does with my .243, about three seasons back, and one went down like a ton of bricks. The next one, I shot three times, knocked down, get up, knocked down, get up, knocked down, went to get her right away, and she ran off about 75-80 yds. before expiring. All three holes could have been covered by your hand, through the shoulder and right behind the shoulder. Went to recover the other deer, and she was gone. No blood, no sign, no nothing except scruff marks where she had laid down and kicked. Never did find her. Not a big fan of either the .243 or GMX copper bullets.

    Leave a comment:


  • Milldawg
    replied
    I have used the SST bullet for several years now. And I've shot several deer under 10 yards with them and a greanade going off inside them is a very accurate description. I know the 25-06 is about 350 fps faster than my .270. Couldn't imagine what a 117 grain SST would do at close range. And I have a .270 SST come apart once. The cup and core separated after passing thru a deer quitting away shot. Found the piece on the far side under hide. But went through the body cavity hit the heart and bust a rib on the exit side went thru the shoulder meat and stopped just on the inside of the hide. So it performed great. Just thinking the monolithic solid would do better for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • DogGuy87
    replied
    My experiences with mono metal bullets have been great. I currently use a 7mm-08 loaded with barnes vor-tx. The 4 (maybe 5?) deer I've taken with that combo have all been under 120 yards including one as close as 7 yards. The entrance wounds all looked like the bullet expanded immediately. I dug the bullet out of the ground from that 7 yard shot and it was missing one of the metal petals but otherwise it looked great.

    That rifle doesn't like superformance ammo but my dad and I have taken quite a few deer with gmx bullets in the 30-30 leverevolution load. I know that's kinda like comparing a dump truck to a sports car but that load has worked well for us.

    Leave a comment:


  • FirstBubba
    replied
    Yeah, the old "break in" routine is passe.
    I'm not all that crazy about monolithic bullets, preferring cup and core.
    It's probably my OFS, but I believe c&c bullets open more easily on close targets and thin skinned game.
    But...open too easily, and any "up close and personal" shots and that high speed rocket will:
    a) blow through without expanding
    b) the inside of your deer will look like a grenade went off!

    I couldn't get my hands on any Sierra 150 gr BTSP for my .308 this year so went with the Hornady 150 gr SST.

    Leave a comment:

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