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hey yall. i have a german wirehaired pointer in need of a e collar. i have tryed one on her before so i know they will work on h

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  • hey yall. i have a german wirehaired pointer in need of a e collar. i have tryed one on her before so i know they will work on h

    hey yall. i have a german wirehaired pointer in need of a e collar. i have tryed one on her before so i know they will work on her.i was wondering what the best one is. By the way i am only 13 so it has to be cheap. preferably under $200. Thanks.

  • #2
    "Sportdog" makes a nice collar with variable power in the controller.
    All less than $200.
    It easily controls my 120# Rottweiler.

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    • #3
      A thirteen year old in control of an e-collar gives me some concern. Many adults abuse the use of an e-collar. I find the cheaper ones result in the most abuse due to their limited options. I strongly suggest that you seek the help of an experienced hunter/trainer before you purchase or use an e-collar on your dog. A GWP is a fine versatile dog, but I have seen some get ruined by improper training. Good luck with your dog.

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      • #4
        I agree with PA. I don't want to think about what I would have done with an e-collar when I was 13. Saying that I have the Tri-tronics G3 Sport basic that I love. It works great for my GSP. Several places have them on sale for around $220 right now. Lot less than I paid for mine.

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        • #5
          Some basic tenants you must understand before using an e collar is that you must never give correction unless you are absolutely positive that the dog knew what it did was wrong, ie. the dog is creeping on point and it knows what whoa means and creeps anyway and flushes game, or totally ignoring comeback tweets on the whistle. I am not a pointing dog guy so I can't offer anymore specific examples but I hope you get the point. Let me say this again, never give correction for an action the dog has not been trained to do or not to do.
          The e collar is not a cure all, but a tool to augment TRAINING, most of which needs to be accomplished on a check cord.
          The Sport Dog 400 is in your price range, has 8 levels of stimulation, with nick and burn modes and a beeper. For the casual trainer it will be fine and we used 3 of these for years here at our kennels. Tri-Tronics is now owned by Garmin and have revamped their entire line and I am not impressed. If you can find a used Pro 100 it may be in your price range. Google Collar Clinic and see what they have in refurbished collars in this line.
          Your age does not concern me, but your lack of experience does so seek advice from a mentor who has trained pointing dogs using an e collar for tutoring, whether in person or via internet. I have seen grown men screw up good dogs because they had not a clue what or how to use an e collar. Good Luck!!!

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          • #6
            So true, RES. Very good advice.

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            • #7
              Yes, good advice. I have trained a lot of hunting dogs but almost all have been labs. My two year-old French Brittany is first pointing dog I've owned. I have never used an e-collar on any dog and done very well. But I have a lot of time to spend working with my dogs and they are in constant contact with me (they live in the house). Both factors make a huge difference. Incidentally, I have also never used a check cord, barrel, or live birds for training. It can be done without that stuff but it takes patience, some ingenuity, a lot of work, ... and the right dog. I have hunted behind two GWP and they were not for me. They both wore e-collars and I can see why. Good hunters but easily out of control. And they both seemed to be somewhat oblivious about keeping their handlers happy. My little Britt can get pretty wound up out in the field but she is deeply in love with me. I use that to my advantage when disciplining her. A devoted sensitive dog is one that is easily trained by conventional methods. And easily ruined with an e-collar!

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              • #8
                To help explain what RES was trying to get at, let me give you an example. If a dog does not bring a bird back to you directly but stops to goof around with it, buzzing her would probably be the wrong thing to do. Positive reinforcement methods would be more effective since the dog is in the process of doing something she is supposed to do, just not quite right. This particular very common indiscretion can usually be cured by giving her a treat and lots of praise every time she returns a bird to hand. Shocking her would only confuse the dog. Buzz her if she doesn't come back when summoned or chases the wrong thing (deer or rabbits). Shocking a dog for breaking point would also seem to me to be the wrong medicine. But since that's never been a problem for me (I have always worked with flushers and this Britt pup is a natural stone cold pointer) I can't really speak with authority on that.

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