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Which do you prefer for muzzleloading; Loose powder or pellets? I was thinking of going powder to customize my load but is there

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  • Which do you prefer for muzzleloading; Loose powder or pellets? I was thinking of going powder to customize my load but is there

    Which do you prefer for muzzleloading; Loose powder or pellets? I was thinking of going powder to customize my load but is there really that much difference to not just buy and throw 2 pellets down my barrel?

  • #2
    I started on Pyrodex with a Hawken percussion with round ball and then recently switched to Triple 7 pellets for a NEF .50 in line with power belt. Both have worked good for me.

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    • #3
      Ah hadda T/C Hawken with custom conical and roundball barrels.

      Gotta lotta flexibility and clean burning with loose Pyrodex P.

      Always ignited, too.

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      • #4
        Dcast

        Two 50 "grain" Triple 7 pellets weigh in at 60 grains on my powder scale.
        One hundred "grains" of loose Triple 7 weighs 78 grains on the same set of scales.
        A friend was shooting 2 T7 pills and I noticed how anemic the report was.
        That's when I broke the scales out. Those folks who "claim" to shoot 150 grains of "pellets", are only shooting the equivalent of 90 grains of loose T7.
        I haven't tried Pyrodex since back in the mid 70's. I didn't like it then. Still don't. Nor have I tried any of the other "replacement" powders.
        I find 90 grains of loose T7 quite sufficient in my T/C Omega.

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        • #5
          According to Barnes Handloading book Triple se7en FFg is almost 300fps faster than the pellets. This was comparing 90 grains to 90 grains. I would go with the loose powder.

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          • #6
            I like pellets just for the convienence, and ease of reloading. Though My dad and a good friend can not get pellets to go off consistently. While powder has never failed them. We believe that the pellets don't get close enough to the primer. So I believe its a personal and gun preference.

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            • #7
              To expand on this question. What powder do you recommend? I'm new to muzzle loaders, I have only borrowed them and used what the owner had, any help would be greatly appreciated.

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              • #8
                Like I said, I've never tried any substitutes except Pyrodex loose when it first came out and now use T7 in my T/C Omega.

                What would I "recommend"?
                I started out with GOEX FFFg and a T/C .50 cal Hawken, therefore, I'm comfortable with loose powder.
                The only reason I shoot T7 is because it and Pyrodex are all that's readily available in my area.
                Pyrodex didn't function as well as black powder for me, so I shy away from that.
                An old friend turned me on to in-lines also used T7.
                Out of curiosity, I tried black powder in my Omega. CRIPES! What a mess! After finally scrubbing that out, I tried T7 in my sidelock.
                Was extremely difficult to ignite.

                I've tried two fifty grain T7 pellets. Not near the punch of 90 grains of loose T7.

                My recommendation would be:
                Sidelock - GOEX FFFg
                Inline - Triple Seven loose despite the convenience of the pellets.
                Max load of pellets is three. One hundred fifty grains and it's only equivalent to 90 grains of loose.

                FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH!

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                • #9
                  I have tried just about every powder out there for ML rifles. Currently am testing 4 in-lines for F&S.Here is what I have learned. When you use pellets you get convenience and that's about all. When I have used 3 pellets (ONLY IN RIFLES RATED FOR 3 PELLETS) the velocity is impressive but accuracy suffers badly. Two pellets is about all any gun will handle with any accuracy and the 3rd pellet does not fully burn. The best accuracy I have gotten with many guns is with 777 powder but no more than 100 grains (by measure not actual weight). The velocity should be a bit better than 2-50 grain pellets. BTW Plastic sabots will trash the front screen on your Chronograph if you shoot too close but I digress. The cleanest burning powder I have seen is Blackhorn 209 which gives relatively low pressure but is very expensive. This is the only powder that does not quickly build a crud ring in your barrel. BH 209 also makes the least smoke which will better enable you to see which way that buck ran after the shot and it too gives good accuracy in most my rifles. My favorite load is a WW209 shotgun primer and 100 grains 777 by measure in my favorite In-line with a 290 grain Barnes TTSX saboted bullet. That load shoots very tight groups, is deadly and has always fired for me. If I increase the powder my groups suffer very fast. After examining many of the fired sabots the reason is obvious. High pressure splits and mushrooms the base and often the wad fingers are ripped off. No doubt there might be a sabot out there that works with 3 pellets I just have yet to find it. One other thing the 2 most accurate In-lines I have seen to date had CVA Bergara barrels and one was a $99.00 very low priced rifle. The other was a CVA Accura. Run a wet patch then a dry patch thru your barrel between shots for best accuracy. I use up a ton of cotton patches. Hope this helps.

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                  • #10
                    First Bubba I have seen some 30 grain pellets perhaps that is what your friends used. Three 50 grain pellets I have tried (IMR White Hot, 777 and pyrodex in more than one in-line gave huge muzzle blasts, heavy recoil, large white smoke cloud and poor accuracy. Velocity approached 2000 fps.
                    The above info is for in-lines. My flintlock long rifle and Hatfield sidelock Mountain rifle are only charged with Goex ffg black powder. One of these days I might buy some Swiss black powder.

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                    • #11
                      As far as I am concerned there is only one powder to use. GOEX. FFG, and FFFFG in the pan. Start with a light load of 1 grain per caliber and work your way up until you get a nice crack in the report.

                      I understand some guys hate to clean their rifles, but I am fine with the good old coal dust. What I really don't get is the trend of paying crazy money for these new bullets. In my Remington 700ml I use a 240gr xtp in a sabot over 90gr FFG. In the longrifle I use a patched roundball over 80 grains. kills things just fine. I just wet patch between shots with moose milk or spit, and don't forget to pick the touch hole after loading. I love that it is cheap to shoot! I admit I enjoy shooting my muzzle loaders most of all.

                      Shoot Straight!

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                      • #12
                        Del
                        He was shooting 50 grain 777 pellets. He showed them to me before he ever fired a shot.
                        He was (is?) just getting into the ML scene and has turned to me sorta as a "mentor". He went to buy powder and all they had was pellets. He shoots a T/C Omega just like mine.
                        In fact, I wasn't able to find 777 "powder" last year either and picked up some 777 pellets (50 gr). I find their performance, shall we say, lacking.
                        I have no doubt two will do a number on a white tail, but I prefer the powder.
                        I also know everybody has a projectile "preference".
                        Mine is a simple sabot with a Berman, 240 gr .429 solid.
                        So far, I'm shooting 2" groups at 100 yards and haven't had to trail a deer over 60 yards.
                        Normally, I find a .429" entry wound and a .429" exit wound with very little blood shot meat.

                        Longrifle

                        I still shoot two sidelocks. A .54 T/C Renegade and a .50 T/C Hawken. I use GOEX FFFg. I shoot the same 240 gr .429" saboted solid.
                        I got turned on to black powder by a friend who shot a Civil War era front stuffer he refurbished. It was awesome!
                        His rifle now resides in the Sam Houston Museum in Huntsville, Texas.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Ultimately it depends on your rifle as to which will perform the best. I have owned two muzzleloaders and each shot differently with each load/round combo.

                          I found that my Millenium Arms ML shot best with 100 gr of loose powder while my new CVA is driving tacks with 2 Triple seven 50 gr. pellets.

                          Try both and experiment to see what works best for you. ALSO be sure to check the state regs in which you hunt. Some do not allow pellets or sabots (example: Colorado)

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                          • #14
                            Del in Ks

                            I'm currently using a Win 209 primer designated for black powder.
                            Everybody else seems to use the standard Win 209 shot shell primer.

                            Is there a "significant" difference?

                            Reason: The black powder variety is becoming more and more difficult to locate.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Del in Ks

                              I'm currently using a Win 209 primer designated for black powder.
                              Everybody else seems to use the standard Win 209 shot shell primer.

                              Is there a "significant" difference?

                              Reason: The black powder variety is becoming more and more difficult to locate.

                              Comment

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