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OK, I've had a few dozen bows, and for the last decade or so have used papertune.
It has always worked, and when good, if checked w bareshaft, proved to be good.
So...........I get this recurve, newer version of one I had before (actually had two older versions).
I shoot off the shelf and use a toothpick behind velcro, to build out sideplate/shelf and have tangential points of contact (velcro gapped for quill clearance).
Had my arrows from the last bow (both older models B50).
So I slapped on the rest and hopped on the patio to papertune.
Horrible nock left. Like 1.5". That would be "weak spine" so I yank the 100gr brass insert (using 125gr tip) and use the reg 13 gr alum insert. OK, better but still nock left.
Hmm, appears my arrow aint out far enough. Fetch 1/8 rod and put behind velcro.
Looks good, or so I thought.
Shoot and still nock left w old arrows, lighter insert one is 1/8" nock left tear.
Yank fletch, and cut an inch off. OK..........now I get holes and no tears, but nothing nock right.
Right handed, I'd like a little nock right.
Never had a bow start out weak, have to tune coming from other direction.
Hold on a minute...........grab bow, sit in chair, place bow in knees, good lighting, sight down shaft.
Uh, it's centered, like a release compound setup. Maybe slightly out.
Not enough that's for sure.
Guess this newer version of that model more cut past center.
Good thing I didn't chop all my arrows.
Played with 3 Rivers spine calculator, backfed what I had on another wood riser bow (on their model list) and indeed, the calclator had it at 2# diff. It shot bullet holes. BUT.........to get the calculator that close, I had to consider the added weight to the insert (Gold tip) as a "footing".
Doing that with my current bow (using diff model but same maker) my old arrows should have worked.
But they didn't. They were an exact match.
Note: did not need fudge factor at bottom of calculator.
So.............my current model (still an old metal riser no longer made- but of changes compared to older versions).......is cut more past center.
I may have used a 1/8" rod behind my velcro sideplate once, maybe not. But on this bow, it wasn't enough.
Kinda threw me for a while.
I shot and shot and shot, yanked inserts, had a bud check it........just chased my tail.
And maybe because I just started out too far inside. And never got it outside.
Others were too far outside and brought in.
Grrrrrrrr.
Think the problem is solved.
The papertune showed a legit nock left, but not weak spine, just not in the setup window.
I knew chopping it, changing tip weight, should have shifted a .400 spine super stiff, and it didn't.
Other .500 w tip game showed the same, so it was not a crash (overpine showing weak).........it was just inside too much the whole time......well until i took an inch off the test arrow, and yanked the heavy insert.
That one makes holes, not tears, and is better than what most folks proly get.
But I arrived coming from the other direction and that irked me.
Not good enough.
Will build sideplate out and test tomorrow.
Would not surprise me to find out my old bows arrows (60# B50) work just fine on this newer one, 54# and FF rated.
Times like these, glad I didn't own a saw at home, might have screwed up a bunch of arrows (not really just need to run heavier tips).
I used a starting point that was good and an ending point) on previous bows of same manufacture, but older model............and it was starting out too far in.
In my defense, I did get glasses, bifocals, and have astigmatism. Not wearing them though..............that's my story and I'm sticking with it
It has always worked, and when good, if checked w bareshaft, proved to be good.
So...........I get this recurve, newer version of one I had before (actually had two older versions).
I shoot off the shelf and use a toothpick behind velcro, to build out sideplate/shelf and have tangential points of contact (velcro gapped for quill clearance).
Had my arrows from the last bow (both older models B50).
So I slapped on the rest and hopped on the patio to papertune.
Horrible nock left. Like 1.5". That would be "weak spine" so I yank the 100gr brass insert (using 125gr tip) and use the reg 13 gr alum insert. OK, better but still nock left.
Hmm, appears my arrow aint out far enough. Fetch 1/8 rod and put behind velcro.
Looks good, or so I thought.
Shoot and still nock left w old arrows, lighter insert one is 1/8" nock left tear.
Yank fletch, and cut an inch off. OK..........now I get holes and no tears, but nothing nock right.
Right handed, I'd like a little nock right.
Never had a bow start out weak, have to tune coming from other direction.
Hold on a minute...........grab bow, sit in chair, place bow in knees, good lighting, sight down shaft.
Uh, it's centered, like a release compound setup. Maybe slightly out.
Not enough that's for sure.
Guess this newer version of that model more cut past center.
Good thing I didn't chop all my arrows.
Played with 3 Rivers spine calculator, backfed what I had on another wood riser bow (on their model list) and indeed, the calclator had it at 2# diff. It shot bullet holes. BUT.........to get the calculator that close, I had to consider the added weight to the insert (Gold tip) as a "footing".
Doing that with my current bow (using diff model but same maker) my old arrows should have worked.
But they didn't. They were an exact match.
Note: did not need fudge factor at bottom of calculator.
So.............my current model (still an old metal riser no longer made- but of changes compared to older versions).......is cut more past center.
I may have used a 1/8" rod behind my velcro sideplate once, maybe not. But on this bow, it wasn't enough.
Kinda threw me for a while.
I shot and shot and shot, yanked inserts, had a bud check it........just chased my tail.
And maybe because I just started out too far inside. And never got it outside.
Others were too far outside and brought in.
Grrrrrrrr.
Think the problem is solved.
The papertune showed a legit nock left, but not weak spine, just not in the setup window.
I knew chopping it, changing tip weight, should have shifted a .400 spine super stiff, and it didn't.
Other .500 w tip game showed the same, so it was not a crash (overpine showing weak).........it was just inside too much the whole time......well until i took an inch off the test arrow, and yanked the heavy insert.
That one makes holes, not tears, and is better than what most folks proly get.
But I arrived coming from the other direction and that irked me.
Not good enough.
Will build sideplate out and test tomorrow.
Would not surprise me to find out my old bows arrows (60# B50) work just fine on this newer one, 54# and FF rated.
Times like these, glad I didn't own a saw at home, might have screwed up a bunch of arrows (not really just need to run heavier tips).
I used a starting point that was good and an ending point) on previous bows of same manufacture, but older model............and it was starting out too far in.
In my defense, I did get glasses, bifocals, and have astigmatism. Not wearing them though..............that's my story and I'm sticking with it
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