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What do you use when tuning your fixed broadheads to your fletchings? O-rings, crush gaskets, something else?

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  • What do you use when tuning your fixed broadheads to your fletchings? O-rings, crush gaskets, something else?

    What do you use when tuning your fixed broadheads to your fletchings? O-rings, crush gaskets, something else?

  • #2
    I never tune them that finely. I get excellent accuracy by just cranking them on until they stop. That is a bit like using three decimal points of accuracy on a wild azz guess. Of course I only use them out to about 40 yards. If I intended to shoot beyond that, I would be using mechanical broadheads.

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    • #3
      Nothing, not that sophisticated. I just let them fly.

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      • #4
        I do not tune mine either. I used Magnus Stingers and they fly the same as my field points out to 50 yards. I would check to see if it is even needed before you go through the hassle. I shoot blazzer vanes and my bow's advertised IBO speed is only 310. I have not chronoed it. Unless you are shooting a super fast bow you probably do not have to tune your broadheads.

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        • #5
          I do, hitting 3 inchs right at 20 yards, about 12 right and three high at 50

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          • #6
            not saying im killing deer that far but it theyre good at 50 I know they will be closer in, using muzzy 100's. just bought a few packs to test them all fixed bladed and they buzz ass they fly to the target muzzy only one that didn't.

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            • #7
              Well in that case, if it is in fact the fixed blades throwing you off by that much, I imagine the best way to tune your broadheads to your fletchings would have been to glue your inserts at the correct position. Adding a washer is going to add weight and you may be shooting a heavy arrow then you do with your practice points. Like I said, I have not had to tune my broadheads. Hopefully someone with some experience with this can be of more help.

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              • #8
                went and talk the the guy at my pro shop shop, walk back tuning. seem to take care of most of it.

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                • #9
                  There is no need to "tune" your fixed blades to your fletching or vanes. Rather, you should tune your arrow flight to minimize oscillation and/or wobble after release. Think about it... your vanes work to stabilize the flight of your arrow by spinning it after the initial flexing of the shot. This is a necessity for uniform, consistent flight. If your arrow is wobbling too much at release, and you have a set of fixed blades up FRONT, they will also work like vanes to steer your arrow in the direction the front of the shaft is wobbling to. This is why you have results like Savageshot is. Take the time to perfect your shooting form, then paper tune your bow to achieve optimum flight and you'll have no problem shooting your fixed blades (regardless of how they line up with your vanes).

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                  • #10
                    paper tuning is where you start but my bow was paper tuned great and they broad heads flew right. walk back tuning fixed the problem.

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                    • #11
                      I shot muzzy 4 blade 100s and they shot great with 4 in vanes but you need aggressive spin on your arrows with that fixblade. i got cheap foam targets and just dropped the practice points because I couldnt get close after switching to 2in vanes.

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