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I'm getting ready for the upcoming bowseason, I want to purchase a new bow and have a descent limit on what I can spend. Its goi

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  • Big C
    replied
    Most importantly, spend the extra money on the bow. If you have some leftover then spend buy a good trail cam. I would rather have no cam than a cheap one though. I bought a cuddeback because I heard too many horror stories of the cheaper ones not working.

    Leave a comment:


  • trophyslayer
    replied
    Skip going to your local dealer and look online for used bows. I bought a bow late last year for 1/2 what the guy paid for it and he only took it out twice. He just didn't like the way it shot (it's a Katera, don't know what there wasn't to like) so he wanted something else. There are just always guys out there with a lot of money who will drop thousands on a new bow every year and are always selling their older models. Demo a few bows and see what you like then go online. Hope this helps and happy hunting!

    Leave a comment:


  • bowhunter1
    replied
    I am a fan of the Fred Bear Lights Out - an be had at Huntersfriend.com for a pretty reasonable price as far as I am concerned. You can get either bare bow, or you can get a complete package (bow, 6 arrows, release, sight, quiver, case, field tips) for a little over 5 bills if memory serves me correctly.

    Leave a comment:


  • shane
    replied
    We understand that you want to break the shoulders and kill the deer all at once, but we're telling you that this can't be done with any normal bow. It would be great if you could, but this is something elk hunters do with .338's. The only shot to take with a bow is the lung (maybe heart too) shot behind the shoulders.

    Leave a comment:


  • lovetohunt
    replied
    Your welcome.

    Also another thing that will greatly help is the brand of broadheads. Get good ones like Muzzy or G5 Montecs or other good brands if you don't already have them. A good sharp broadhead will help greatly with a shot on a shoulder blade.

    Leave a comment:


  • bowhunter352
    replied
    lmao geeez finally thanks lovetohunt... OF COURSE I DONT WANT TO INTENTIALLALY BREAK THE SHOULDERS! Its just this year I made a bad shot on a doe from only 30 yards, yea i know a simple shot but I shot the doe got smoked!... Come to find out it just nailed her shoulder plate and came out like 10 yards away. After that I learned my lesson, I don't and will never ever try to harm a deer unless I plan to take it with a nice fast shot that will kill it clean and fast. After that., I was so worryed I screwed that doe up and wasted the harvest of fine backstrap and tenderloin. I don't aim for the shoulders just a bad experience. and if im going to get a nice bow for my money I want one strong enough to yea, if that ever happens again in my bow hunting career which I'm sure I will, I want to be comfortable knowing I might have still taken the deer with a bad shot. I guess I didn't mean BREAK, I meant peirce through or any other term for taking the deer with a bad shot. Its the first time its happened to me and I plan on never letting it happen again hopfully. So yea, I just want a bang for my buck $$$... something that can get the job done. So sorry for my misplaced words, I knew what I was talking about I just worded it wrong, but thanks lovetohunt, you knew what I was explaing. Thansk everyone for your help. I'm on the look out for a new bow as I write this. =]

    Leave a comment:


  • libertyfirst
    replied
    The typical bow 50-70 lbs can't break through the shoulders of a deer and to try that kind of shot with archery gear is definitely not a smart approach. You can with super heavy arrows and massive draw weight bows, but this type of thing is not common. You would be better off, I feel, with a moderate draw weight bow and a through knowledge of a deers anatomy.The heart lung shot at broadside is the best shot that you can take. There are so many wonderful bows available today that it would be difficult to choose a poor one. I have used the Matthews for many years and have been fully satisfied. Make sure that you buy your bow from a pro shop because they can offer so much advice to make you a better archer.

    Leave a comment:


  • lovetohunt
    replied
    Shane
    Steve

    I think he wants the bow to be able to break both shoulders, incase of a missplaced shot, we all have those shots that did'nt go exactly were we want them.

    Leave a comment:


  • CoastieHunter
    replied
    Answer to ALL of your questions....

    Don't get me wrong I fully try to support my local Archery shop. Seems like there are less and less of them around because of the big guys BUT...

    Best bang for your buck.
    Huntersfriend.com <-----

    I picked up the PSE Stinger, and got my GF the Diamond. Read what they do on the site. I picked up mine for $500 and got EVERYTHING needed to hit the woods. From release to broadheads. PLUS they tune it for you!
    No joke-
    within 50 arrows of having the bow and not touching a single site pin, @ 20yrds I broke 5 knocks and had 1 robin hood!
    Check their site out. Really good deals!

    Leave a comment:


  • steve182
    replied
    I agree with shane. You shouldn't be trying to break any shoulders. Shoot just behind the shoulder. All you have to break is a rib, if that, and you should get pass-thrus. A 60-70# bow is great, but don't get too caught up in needing to pull 70# for deer.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sharkfin
    replied
    This time last year I decided I was going to get a new bow and make my old Browning my backup. I shopped around, shot several and settled on the Parker Trailblazer XP. Outfitted it was $499, I changed the sight and addedd a stabalizer bar and the total with tax was right at $750. I can put groups of 4 arrows in a 6" circle out to 50 yards. I'm not saying go with the Parker, although I think it's a great bow. Go with what you shoot the best. If I had unlimited funds I probably would have gotten a Matthews but it would have probably cost me +-$400 more.

    Leave a comment:


  • 007
    replied
    I too am on the market for a new bow and am leaning heavily toward the Mission X3 (missionarchery.com/) by Mathews. Reasonably priced with the usual Mathews features, just not the cosmetics. Check it out. Agreed with Shane tho on breaking shoulders, you'll punch a hole thru one, MAYBE both, but you won't break them. Why shoot at the shoulders anyway? You want to put a broadhead thru the heart/lungs, not the scapula. Good hunting.

    Leave a comment:


  • shane
    replied
    I don't think there are any bows out there that will break through both shoulders. You need a rifle for this.

    Leave a comment:


  • buckhunter
    replied
    Buy a Mathews bow and deck it out with a trophy taker drop away rest and a good fiber optic sight. I like 3 pins. Throw on a light hydro stablizer and your set.

    You'll have to decide if you like the long or short bows or attached or detached quiver.

    I don't care for peep sights but I'm in a very small minority. I feel peeps are great for target bows but not for hunting bow.

    Regardless of the brand of bow you buy it's not the bow that decides how well it shoots. It's you.

    Leave a comment:


  • bowhunter352
    replied
    thanks jlfreeborn, thats good advice. I'll have to just go and try them all, I think I would have better luck at the small local shops then the local Gander MT.

    Thanks lovetohunt, I'll have to see the pics.

    Leave a comment:

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