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I'm just getting in to bow hunting this year and am looking for a bow that has a draw weight of about 35 lbs. and was wondering

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  • I'm just getting in to bow hunting this year and am looking for a bow that has a draw weight of about 35 lbs. and was wondering

    I'm just getting in to bow hunting this year and am looking for a bow that has a draw weight of about 35 lbs. and was wondering what bow you would get if you were a first time bow hunter and what accesories would you get for the bow if it wasn't already included?

  • #2
    I don't know about other states but in GA the minimum draw weight for a bow is 40 Lbs. I would venture to say it is the same or more in other states. What kind of bow you get depends on how much money you have to spend. A good starter bow might be a PSE or a Fred Bear bow. I would get a whisker biscuit for the rest, a stabilizer, a quiver some string silencers, a kisser button, fiber optic sights and a release. Go to your local hunting store, not wally world or other big stores but a small mom and pop business. They will be able to answer any questions you have and tell you what your draw length needs to be.

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    • #3
      My first bow was a PSE Deer Hunter and I was not very impressed withit's performance. I can not really recomend a bow for you because I am not you. But I would say a great bow is the Diamond The Rock or Razor Edge (also a Diamond.) For a beginner's bow I would recommend the Razor Edge because it is adjustable from 30-60 pounds and has about 10 inches of draw length adjustment. The main thing you need to do is go to a local bow shop and get your draw length a and weight measured. Then you should pick a bow accordingly.

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      • #4
        Your accesories should include a whisker biscuit arrow rest, a Sim's S-coil stabilizer, some kind of 3 or 4-pin fiber-optic sight (like the TruGlo Brite-Site Xtreme), a peep sight, string silencers (the Razor Edge already has them), a mechanical release (I recommend a Scott), and a good bow sling (they help you to hold your bow after the shot.) I would also add that you need to pick arrows according to the bow you plan to get and buy a bunch of field points for those arrows.

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        • #5
          Go to Mathewsinc. At the top of the page click on "retailer locater" type in your zip code and they will give you the address of your nearest Archery pro-shop. They have everything from beginner bows to the "Cadillac" of bows. A pro will measure your draw length and let you shoot several bows they keep on hand for trying. Let the pro show you what you need to fit your desires. In the long run it will save you money wasted on stuff you don't need.

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          • #6
            most hunting laws require that a hunting bow be at least 50lbs draw. good starter bow is a pse nova. good controlable lower end weight and up to 75 to 80 lbs on high end. dont need heavy draw weight to kill with it, need practice,practice.

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            • #7
              I started bow hunting at age 12 with a Browning Micro Midas set at about 35 lbs. I know for a fact that 35 lbs of draw weight can kill a deer--I killed a spike buck on my very first bow hunt. The arrow protruded through the deer about 8" and he dropped dead after about a 75 yard dash. The shot was about 20 yards broadside. I've since upgraded to a Parker Feathermag II set at 60 lbs.

              My advice for finding a starter bow would be to find a good archery shop and let them help you out. When I first switched to my Parker, I couldn't quite pull the listed minimum draw weight but my archery guy (Richard Aaron of Aaron's Archery, Newburg, MO, if you're curious) was able to rig the strings to reduce the draw weight to below what the manufacturer had listed.

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              • #8
                Hjohn429 sounds like he's gonna have one for sale, might be what your looking for. If I could add to what Hjohn said for accesories, I'd add a string loop for your mechanical release. Less wear and tear on your bow string.

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                • #9
                  35 lbs will kill a deer but is below the minimum in many states. Check your local regs first before you plunk down your money. You should buy a bow with a draw weight that you are able to pull in the shop and buy at the lower end of the bows range. That way you can adjust up as you get stronger. 50 lbs will kill just about any animal in North America at any reasonable distance. 60 will get you a flatter trajectory and reduce misses from errors in range estimation. 75 -80 if you can handle it but lots of people would be better off with less draw and more control.
                  You should use a draw weight you can pull easily because it will be much harder to pull after you have been sitting in the cold in your stand for a couple of hours. The difference between what you can do comfortably at the range after warming up and what you can do for the one shot you will get from a stand in the cold is significant.
                  Gander Mtn. and Cabelas have decently priced bows with accessory kits that are good for starters. Balance that with the good advice above about avoiding big box stores. My bow had to be reset up after the big box boys did it for me where I bought it.

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                  • #10
                    I own a PSE and I have a sight on it with a whisker biscuit and that gets the job done.

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                    • #11
                      Although a 35 pound bow is surely capable of killing a deer, I would highly recommend getting up to at least 50 even if your state laws don't require it. Just about any compount bow you find will have sufficient let off to allow you to pull it at 50 pounds. I actually just did an experiment last year and set mine to 40 pounds to see how it would do. I shot two deer with it. It passed through the first deer completely. On the second deer, the arrow only penetrated about 10 inches. It sounded like the arrow hit a board fence as it hit high in the chest anlging down very severely (he was about 10 yards away directly beneath my stand). It actually killed him dead as it penetrated both lungs and he only ran about 80 yards. However, there was NO exit wound and therefore NO blood trail. Had I accidenally made a less than perfect shot, I may never have found him. As it was, I was beginning to think I may never find him. With no blood trail in thick brush, you could lose a heart shot deer. Therefore the moral of the story is to use enough bow to always penetrate the chest / shoulder and leave a blood trail. Sometimes, a 40 pounder won't do that. By the way, I got my Bear Whitetail bow at a garage sale (or check Craig's List) for about $25. It was an nice old bow and that made it kind of fun to try. Some very expensive bows make it a little easier but any compound bow will work if you learn how to shoot it and prepare yourself to shoot well inside 50 yards.

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                      • #12
                        I think 35# is too light. You probably need to get up to at least 45-50.

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