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I have a Remington 870 Wingmaster. It is an older model, 20 gauge, with a full fixed choke. I got the gun for hunting squirrels

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  • Hoski
    replied
    I'm not a fan of cutting up stock Remington barrels, I'd look for a Rem barrel with the choke you want or pick up an after market.

    Leave a comment:


  • DakotaMan
    replied
    OH, mine have been nearly all sharpies. I've only shot a few dozen in my lifetime because I really don't like the taste of them compared to pheasant and quail. Long ago I had a double barrel 20 gauge that I really liked in the thick brush; mostly for rabbits and quail. It had a modified and a full barrel with a separate trigger for each. I usually put a 2.75" shell in the mod and a 3" in the full. It was nice to use the pattern that fit the situation.

    I grew up shooting #4 shot for everything because I bought it in 25 pound bags and it allowed me to hunt everything except geese, foxes and coyotes using my 12 and 20 gauges. It also penetrated most game well enough that I never bit into shot while eating it. I lived on that game and hated breaking my teeth and those of my family.

    Leave a comment:


  • Treestand
    replied
    The Cheep way-out Cut the first 2.5" off U will have Cyl-Bore Best Grouse Gun going. Add a Glow worm front sight.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhjimbo
    replied
    Check out this on www.gunbroker.com
    20ga, 26", vent rib field with one mod. choke tube. does not say what size shells.
    item # 383545331 $100.00
    www.gunbroker.com/AuctionViewItem.aspx?Item=383545331

    Leave a comment:


  • ImColty
    replied
    I have heard a lot about a guy named Mike Orlen? He would open her up for about $35. That is a lot cheaper than buying another barrel. I was just wondering if it would be worth the time and the possible risk of sending it away. Really im looking for the best overall for squirrel, rabbit, and grouse?

    Leave a comment:


  • 99explorer
    replied
    I think the Ruffed Grouse Society still gives an award pin to anyone who scores a proven double on grouse.
    The hunter has to provide the location, time and date of the kill, with the names and contact information for any witnesses.
    The birds have to flush together, so "staggered doubles" don't count.

    Leave a comment:


  • Treestand
    replied
    JMO~~ Have a Poly-Chock installed, They still make them, it gives you a range of all chock setting with a twist of the Wrist. from Cyl-bor(Slug) to Ex-Full $75.00+/-

    Leave a comment:


  • Ontario Honker Hunter
    replied
    Dakota, if you are talking sharptailed grouse, that's quite a different ballgame than woodland grouse (though sharpies are also found in the woodlands up here). Exception is, of course, spruce grouse which only require a slingshot or a stick to kill. Thirty yard shots at ruff or blue grouse would be the exception not the rule. My experience anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ontario Honker Hunter
    replied
    I know this will sound counterproductive but I suggest just buying some cheap trap/skeet shells. If you can find low base 2.75" shells in 7 1/2 shot, those might do you fine. The powder loads and wads for target loads aren't designed for tightening up the pattern like most hunting loads. I think you'll do okay with them. I hunt pheasants with 12 gauge 2.75" and did the best this season with low base #6 shot STEEL. My gun has modified barrel but that still should be a MUCH denser pattern than what your 20 gauge full choke would produce with similar loads. And I wasn't tearing up the birds either. Not even when I had to switch to the 12 gauge pump with full choke barrel on the last day. One bird was taken quite close with it and hit hard but not blown up enough to kill it (though he sure wasn't going anywhere with both wings and legs broken).

    Leave a comment:


  • DakotaMan
    replied
    I haven't shot grouse in thick brush too much. Most of mine have come from grass patches and thickets on the prairie. I've also spent a fair amount of time sneaking up on them after sighting them from a mile away. In stomping through the pine forests of the Rockies, they do sit and stare from 15 yards and they disappear fast but I think my average shot has still been close to 30 yards. They are not nearly as tough as a goose, a duck or a pheasant. I use #4 shot so I can shoot them further out when necessary. A 3" #4 in a 20 gauge is pretty lethal on grouse. I have seen guys go after them with #6 and #7 shot and with those 30 yards is a long shot and it takes them twice as long to clean out their shot. To each his own.

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  • 99explorer
    replied
    In my experience, there are no really long shots at ruffed grouse, esp. early in the season before the leaves fall.
    You have to get your shot off fast before the bird gets a tree between you and it.
    Good luck with those 50-yard shots.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhjimbo
    replied
    I can make a few suggestions. Check with some choke manufacturer(Briley, Hastings) and see if they will thread it for screw in chokes - invector or Remington type. An older 870 should have enough barrel wall thickness to be able to do that. Might even check with Remington.
    If that is too costly, think about getting an after market barrel threaded for removable chokes, one that you might even get an extended rifled choke for deer hunting.
    As a last resort, leave it as it is, as others have suggested and learn to not take any close in shots. Also, don't shoot slugs through it.

    Leave a comment:


  • ImColty
    replied
    The shop I bought it from was nice enough to take my number and are suppose to call if they come across a modified barrel. I have heard most shots you get at grouse are close up due to the thick cover they prefer?

    Leave a comment:


  • R emington
    replied
    Also, check to see what it would cost to just buy a second barrel.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pray- hunt-work
    replied
    99's right. That's a heck of a grouse gun. However I agree with Dakota, leave it alone and learn to shoot it.

    Leave a comment:

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