Well pretty sure I’ve been bitten by the builders bug.

[FirstBubba]

Caught Anderson lowers on sale for $39.95 several years ago. Bought 3.
My AR10 is PSA top to bottom.
Both AR15's are Anderson.
The 6.8mm barrel is Anderson.

My first two builds were on poly lowers. Everything since then has been on Anderson uppers and lowers.

As far as I'm concerned, Anderson is good stuff.

P.S. - I do like Aero Precision, its just a bit pricey for me and delivery time from Washington state takes 2 or 3 more days.
Even Anderson in Hebron, KY is quicker than AP.

[Milldawg]

Anderson makes good stuff. Aero is available to me a local store. Anderson is locally available also. I like the aero black it’s richer than the Anderson black but that’s not a big deal.

[FirstBubba]

Anderson makes good stuff. Aero is available to me a local store. Anderson is locally available also. I like the aero black it’s richer than the Anderson black but that’s not a big deal.

I've tried buying from my local M&P.
The same Anderson lower I get for $49.95 + $5 shipping from Primary Arms, the M&P wants $70 or $80 for!
M&P doesn't charge me a transfer fee.

[DakotaMan]

I've been experimenting with precision AR shooting for about 15 years now and have the following observations. Not everyone agrees I'm sure; but my opinions are based on results I've seen, not because I have a product to sell. Spray and pray home defense users don't need precision but as a rifle shooter, I demand precision in every rifle I shoot. These are intended to help you if you want precision from your build. Here is what I've observed:

1. The main contributor to precision is the barrel. If it is a premium barrel capable of shooting 0.1" groups, it will shoot nearly that well on just about any AR you put it in. If you put a Bartlein or a Krieger barrel on an AR, it may shoot with precision equivalent to a bolt rifle. A properly installed free floating hand guard is essential to allowing the premium barrel to flex naturally. Most AR barrels are crap for precision shooting and those made for the military can typically only maintain 1-1 1/2" groups. I got an exceptional Bushmaster Varminter long ago and it shot in the 0.1-0.2" group size for 3-5K rounds.

2. AR parts are made to Mil Spec. You can grab any part out of a pile, running from low to high cost and you can expect the same result. The paint or logo on one might be different but I don't worry about their effect on precision. I no longer worry about part failure. If I ever encounter a part that doesn't fit or work right, I'll throw it away and install a replacement. So far that has never happened to me.

3. The Mil Spec is not aimed at precision. It is aimed at low production cost and easy interchangeability of parts in the field. The fit between the upper and lower is sloppy for a reason but it DOES negatively affect precision. You can FIX this sloppy fit for about $5 on ANY combination of AR parts. You can add a little rubber Accu-wedge under the rear take-down pin and you can epoxy a thin .005" shim under the front take-down pin to eliminate the slop. These typically cut your group size in half if not better. Precision depends on consistent barrel harmonics from shot-to-shot. There is no consistency unless you correct this slop.

4. A good trigger really helps precision. The Geissele 2-Stage is the gold standard. There is no way I would EVER achieve the 0.1" to 0.2" accuracy with a standard 4-6 pound trigger. I won't waste ammo without that trigger. The stages on mine are set at 1 lb for varmints and targets and 3 lbs for hunting applications so I don't accidentally discharge with gloves, frozen fingers, etc. With a two stage trigger, both pull weights are available to you without having to change adjustment. You just pull the trigger slow for the light weight and normally for the heavier weight.

5. Add-ons like stocks, buffer tubes, springs, etc. have little impact on precision but they do affect operation. As long as you have an adjustable gas block, you won't need much else to operate effectively as you change bullet weights, load pressure or suppressors

6. There are all kinds of butt stocks. I've found that the easiest to use and the most accurate for me is the standard M2. I can use the tapered stock bottom to quickly adjust elevation by sliding my rear rest or hand forward and back; and it is solid. I use the right scope ring height to generate the right cheek weld for me. I don't use rear monopods because they are too wobbly. The PRS style is really adjustable and useful but you need to adjust your own elevation using some other method. With the PRS stock, I use a cantilever front rest or a cantilever bi-pod.

7. Rifle/Scope cant is a precision killer and the AR contour is diabolical with regard to susceptibility to cant. Slightly more pressure on one side of that vertical pistol grip will easily cant the whole rig without you knowing it. 3 degrees of cant slings your shot about 9" from the point of aim at 500 yards. Two investments help immensely in controlling this: a) a scope anti-cant bubble (from $6-$45- they all work) and b) a front bipod that holds the cant consistently from shot to shot.

I would also note that if you choose to go 6 ARC, factory ammo will likely be as available as 30-06 ammo once the pandemic is over. It is available online now. Get Hornady 108 ELD ammo for now. It has reasonable pricing, proven good velocity (2750 fps), accuracy (0.3" - 0.7") and deer stopping impact (excellent mushrooming at close high velocity or 500 yard slower velocity. At this point, I'm getting better accuracy out of that bullet than any other Berger or Sierra that I've tried so I don't hesitate at recommending it.

I hope these observations help you approach your build. You may not be too concerned about precision but for me, only an accurate rifle is worth shooting unless it is made for close range spray and pray self-defense. It doesn't cost a lot more to make an accurate rifle except for the cost of the barrel. Because of its accuracy and low cost of operation, my AR has become my favorite rifle to shoot.

[FirstBubba]

D'Man, we're pretty much on the same page.
If the barrel is properly torqued to the upper and the scope is mounted square, there is little else to affect accuracy except shooter and trigger.
I use a barrel level, a feeler gauge and a piece of string to mount my scopes.
So far, so good!
NOW! If my eyes and hands would just cooperate, I could probably shoot some nice groups! 👀 "👋"

[Milldawg]

Great advice. I have an accu wedge in the safe waiting with the other parts. My fancy smith and Wesson has factory installed bumpers where the upper lower contact it greatly reduces the wiggle. In the Marin corps we used little pieces of ear plugs under the pins. So far my fancy smith has digested everything it it has been feed. I can get 1 1/4 groups with cheap white box Winchester. I haven’t been able to buy anything else to test with. Next range trip I’m going to try federal 62 grain green tips. It the o my other thing I have around. Speaking of check weld I have a voltor stock on the smith and I don’t like it. A new stock will probably will help tremendously. And when i finally order a barrel for the precision rifle it will have a target crown.

[EVAKATY75]

Honestly, milldawg, since I started building (2010), they (?) have come out with butt loads of "new", and I use that term loosely! LOL!, cartridges. Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin