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  • Muzzlebrake

    Got a lighter AR build for a varminter.
    Wondering what comp/flash hider to use.

    Was thinking YH Phantom, or maybe a Miculek comp (dang they are loud).
    Buddy has a Timber Creek Heartbreaker.

    Looks is a factor (I don't like the line around the top). Not wanting the best flash hider. Not wanting the best comp.
    Wanting something that does both, middle of the road.

    Ordered a FF tube, Diamonback was all sold out. Went UTG pro (US made and buds that have high dollar rigs, several, said that they are actually decent- so did Mr.Gunsngear on YT).

    Scope will be a 1-4x or 2-7X. Worst case, 3-9X Mark AR.
    I got a bid on another scope on an auction site so can't buy anything until that's run through.
    Will not be running a QD mount.
    Last edited by CD2; 05-13-2020, 08:37 PM.

  • #2
    Being the proverbial "tightwad", I always opt for the plain-Jane old, cheap a$$ "bird cage" suppressor.
    Cheap, easy to find and helps control muzzle jump.

    Comment


    • #3
      cd2, make no mistake, YHM, Spyder and all those other manufacturers make very good parts. They know it and it shows in their pricing.

      One outfit I use would occasionally run stripped lowers for as little as $29.99/each! ...and they weren't "blems"!
      YHM, Spyder, PSA and lots of those more popular names never sold for less than $50/each and most over a C-note.

      I try to find a balance between a Ford "Falcon" and a Rolls "Silver Shadow". Somewhere in the middle.


      ​​

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      • #4
        IMHO, an A2 birdcage is hard to beat for a middle of the road option.

        Comment


        • #5
          The ultimate flash suppressor is a can. Put one on and it greatly reduces noise, flash, and blast. I typically don't use one when covering a lot of woods but shooting from a stationary position the extra length is not a bother.

          By the way, I've found the .300 Blackout to have noticeably less muzzle blast than the .223
          Last edited by PigHunter; 05-16-2020, 10:19 AM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by PigHunter View Post
            The ultimate flash suppressor is a can. Put one on and it greatly reduces noise, flash, and blast. I typically don't use one when covering a lot of woods but shooting from a stationary position the extra length is not a bother.

            By the way, I've found the .300 Blackout to have noticeably less muzzle blast than the .223
            Yeah, but an A2 "birdcage" is less than $20 and doesn't require a permit or background check and you can sell it to anyone.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by FirstBubba View Post

              Yeah, but an A2 "birdcage" is less than $20 and doesn't require a permit or background check and you can sell it to anyone.
              Yep, I'm fully aware of that and use one on my rifle when not using a suppressor. However, the birdcage is still loud enough for hearing damage and is inadequate for reducing flash in low light conditions.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by PigHunter View Post

                Yep, I'm fully aware of that and use one on my rifle when not using a suppressor. However, the birdcage is still loud enough for hearing damage and is inadequate for reducing flash in low light conditions.
                Very true, pighunter.
                I wouldn't mind having a "can".
                I just don't want to jump through all the legal hoops.
                My "OFS" kicking in pighunter! LOL!

                Comment


                • #9
                  I use removable brakes for all my varmint rifles so I can spot my own shots and don't need to tie up a spotter for days of shooting. Even the little .223 has enough muzzle rise so that it takes a high magnification scope off the target and you have no idea where you hit. I use hearing protection when shooting anyway so don't really notice the difference when using a brake. I find that this style of brake (with top port holes) does an excellent job whether it is a $500 name brand brake or a $25 el-cheapo off of ebay.

                  I like the clean look of both these brakes and they are easy to spin off and on using a screw driver through the rear ports. One is the Northwest Precision (NWP) brake and the other is a Precision Reflex brake. They both do a great job of holding the muzzle in place without affecting accuracy. These both have to be indexed so the holes at the top (which stop muzzle rise) are in the right position. You can index using the provided shim washers or you can sand off the back of the brake appropriately with 600 grit emory paper to get a clean look. NWP will turn the brake the exact diameter of your barrel if you desire like the one pictured.

                  I took a picture of the NWP to see how the ports are used. As you can see, most exhaust exits the first port all around. A little exhaust gets to the second port and not much beyond that. Note there is no downward blast so you can shoot these off a bipod without blowing dirt in your face. I have video of the muzzle movement too and it is amazing how solid these brakes make .223 through .243 calibers. Even my 6mm, 25 and 6.5mm Creedmoors and 22-6mm are solid with these brakes. Without a brake, my Creedmoors jump up 5 inches and 2 inches to the right and both these brakes stop any muzzle jump.

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                  • #10
                    The NWP brake is one of Chuck McIntosh's brakes. I have several of his brakes.
                    I do not have any flash-hiders on my rigs.
                    I have a number of brakes. I prefer solid -bottomed brakes.
                    These are some of Chuck's/NWP's earlier designs.



                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Here's a shot from yesterday when I was in the woods looking for pigs. Suppressor attached.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	ar with can.jpg
Views:	54
Size:	564.1 KB
ID:	733493

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                      • #12
                        I have the miculek brake I think I spelled it right. It works but, it is miserably loud. If you want to see bullet splash then it for you. If you want to defen anyone with 100 yards it’s for you. I prefer the bird cage. I’m building an ar one piece at a time lol and I’m putting a flash can on it.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I am familiar w the Miculek brake. Unfortunately.
                          LOL

                          Works good, is way loud.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Last I looked, the Miculek brake did not have ports at 12:00 and therefore does not do a great job of holding the muzzle down if you are using it to spot your own shots. It is a solid brake that reduces recoil though and it looks real good. It is reasonably priced around $40, especially considering it includes an indexing nut. If I had one, I'd drill a hole at 12:00 over the rear port or maybe a couple of holes over the first two ports.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              They say the slots angled does help w muzzle climb. Theres a brake test video or two on YT

                              Comment

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