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Most all major ammo manufacturers claim they have a line of ammo that rivals the most accurate hand loaded ammo. What do you do

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  • Most all major ammo manufacturers claim they have a line of ammo that rivals the most accurate hand loaded ammo. What do you do

    Most all major ammo manufacturers claim they have a line of ammo that rivals the most accurate hand loaded ammo. What do you do special or extra to squeeze the last ounce of accuracy from your reloads? Just a quick shooting question to keep things moving.

  • #2
    I'm not a "squeezer." I have an old Lee loading manual from my dad and I follow it to the letter. I'm not a range target shooter so not particularly interested in extraordinary accuracy. The boiler room on an elk is a pretty big target.

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    • #3
      Thank you for your effort to "keeping things moving."

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      • #4
        Back in the Day of my Reloading .22Hornet and later 17/Hornet,I would Scale all my bullets and separate the ones not on par.and then start reloading for accuracy, Woodchucks don't have a boiler room like an Elk, more like the size of a deck of cards at 300+Yd.

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        • #5
          For me, reloading is more about shooting more for less than it is accuracy.
          The "pleasure" is ammo that looks "factory"! ....something I've created that surpasses "factory"! Extreme accuracy is just a nice side effect.

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          • #6
            I spend some time prepping my brass before I reload it, and I'll weigh each powder charge, but that's about it. I have a couple loads for each caliber that shoot well enough, and I enjoy doing it.

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            • #7
              Checking the weight of the bullets? Interesting. Had never thought of that.

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              • #8
                I used to work with a guy who would weigh not only bullets but brass and primers, as well. He was the best shot I have ever seen.

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                • #9
                  First start by using good components. I use Nosler brass, and either Nosler or Hornady bullets.
                  Make sure all powder is exactly the same for each load. Set the overall length to where the bullet almost touches the lands. and I usually load lighter than factory loads. really hot loads usually do not shoot well.

                  That is somthing that factory ammo cannot duplicate.
                  The powder charge in factory loads will often vary by several grains, and there will be a lot of space between the bullet and the lands.

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                  • #10
                    I find a bullet my rifle likes then I try to reduce or repeat the group by weighing and segregating bullets and brass, prepping brass, weighing each powder charge and I also rotate the case while seating the bullet in an attempt to reduce run out. I will seat my bullet close to the lands as the final step. I don't turn necks nor do I weigh primers. I do try different primers.

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                    • #11
                      Polish brass.
                      Inspect.
                      Lube, resize, deprime and inspect. Especially neck and base.
                      Polish again.
                      Inspect.
                      Re-prime.
                      Inspect.
                      Weigh each powder charge. Charge case and seat bullet.
                      Inspect and return to loading block.
                      Inspect and pack into appropriate caliber MTM Case-gard, 50 round boxes.
                      "FIRE!"
                      Inspect. Replace in Case-gard box.
                      Repeat cycle.
                      If anywhere in there I do something that assures my handloads are superior/inferior to "factory", so be it! I've only had one handload misfire in 40 years! Can't say that about factory ammo!

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                      • #12
                        Bullets can vary a grain or more in any given box so I group them to within .1 grain
                        I weigh all powder charges except for just shootin' ammo I will dispense a charge directly into a case, especially if I am a few 10ths away from max.
                        I have not done anything to brass, just trim and clean if necessary. Most rounds are neck sized, unless specific for hunting.
                        Seating depth has always been a mystery to me. Benchrest shooters like to get within a nats wisker from the lands, yet my Weatherby Mk V has all kinds of bullet jump with factory ammo. The Weatherby shoots 3rds touching from a fouled cold barrel. Go figure.
                        Reports I have heard are factory 'match' ammo has come a long way in the last several years. Not to what a competent re-loader can achieve but they are getting close.
                        My best group so far from a .284 is .387 for a 5 shot group. That was a Mauser 3000 in .280Remington. Still have the target hanging on the wall.

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                        • #13
                          I think that when comparing general accuracy that statement is true. However I figured out shooting my nosler reloads with accubond in my 300 win mag is about $1.80 a round. When looking for the same bullet on line then tend to run from $2.45 to almost $3.00 a bullet.

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                          • #14
                            it is mainly because I can't find .284 win ammo any where and when i can find it, it is 3-4 dollars a round while it costs me around 1.50-2 dollars a round to reload. It is also relaxing for me to sit down and reload for a little. I also see a visible tightening in groups especially past 300 yards.

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                            • #15
                              I weigh all brass after it is primed and trimmed. If it is not consistent, I cull it. I stick with the same primer for each load. I work up several powders and load combinations until I achieve my desired velocity without pressure signs, then cull to the one that shoots best then vary the powder charge a couple of tenths/grain and maybe swap primers and vary seating depth. I look for consistent velocity spreads during the work up. Big velocity spreads usually equals less accuracy at long range. A few fps is usually pretty trivial.

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