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Per previous post, does WD-40 have a place in your gun closet? What's your favorite (preferred?) "coating" prior to off season s

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  • Jerry A.
    replied
    I haven't used WD-40 on firearms before, because I was told it was bad for the wood. I have been using Remoil for quite a while, but was recently given some Seal CLP Plus that I'm going to use the next time I need to clean my firearms.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    No WD-40 on my guns for many years. I use Rem-Oil with Teflon almost exclusively for light cleaning, and liquid graphite for bolt action lube. Triggers are sprayed down with Rem-Oil and then re-sprayed with Birchwood Casey gun scrubber. I clean barrels with Bore-Tech Eliminator.
    I might use WD-40 and a nylon pad to remove surface rust, but would carefully remove it with Rem-Oil right afterward. 40 works well on fishing reels, though.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhjimbo
    replied
    Dakota,
    I have used molybdenum while breaking in a new barrel. Seems to keep fouling down and maybe helps keep temp down. When rotating rifles, i keep the fired ones in a rack, vertical, with the action open and that seems to cool them right down.
    I have the powdered moly on a paper towel and just roll the bullet in it just before loading. After the first series of two dozen rounds the barrel is lapped fairly good and i discontinue the moly.

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  • DakotaMan
    replied
    WAM, I did not hear about the high pressure from the guy who recommended break-in with WD-40. I haven't shot that many doing this but to me, the pressure always seemed lower with WD-40 in the barrel. Velocities dropped a bit from normal. I do use low-end charges during rifle break in and would recommend that for any new barrel where pressure is likely to be at its highest due to the new bore dimension.

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  • Ontario Honker Hunter
    replied
    retain not "return" combustion byproducts.

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  • Ontario Honker Hunter
    replied
    Interesting info, Jimbo. Thanks. I had forgotten about synthetic motor oil. Always wondered how that stuff was made. I always presumed that perhaps some kind of vegetable oil was the base and they worked it up from there (perhaps soybean oil?). Hmmm. Okay, synthetic motor oil, it turns out, is made from crude oil bases. Because the stuff is not refined but rather entirely remade from petrochemical derivatives (e.g. esters), these oils are described as "synthetic" (except in Germany and Japan where that labeling is forbidden). The only significant advantage to synthetic motor oil as opposed to regularly distilled motor oil is the former retains its lubricating properties at much higher and lower temperatures and also is less inclined to return combustion byproducts (soot). It would seem therefore that synthetic oil would have no advantage over regular motor oil as a gun oil substitute. I suspect that for use in harsh conditions (rain and snow), motor oil would probably perform well as a protective agent. Maybe not so well as a lubricant in the mechanism but it certainly is conceivable that one could use two different oils for gun care. And, yes, WAM, I wouldn't advocate running motor oil or other heavy lubes through the bore, not without at least pushing a tight dry rag through it a couple of times afterwards.

    Similarly, when preparing a gun for use in dry, dusty environments I probably would not be using a heavy oil as a protective agent. It's not necessary and would likely only attract a build up of dusty grime. Little or no oil is needed to protect a gun in a desert so perhaps WD40 MIGHT have some utility in that particular situation. Maybe Happy Miles can shed some light on gun oils he has used in those conditions.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhjimbo
    replied
    I am not sure what the additive package is in Mobil 1.
    Synthetic Mobil 1 is a low molecular weight, long chain poly-alpha-olifin first developed by Shell Research and the rights sold to Mobil Oil, now Exon/Mobil.
    Excellent low and high temp properties.
    Natural oils are either mineral,vegetable or animal.
    Mineral base oils are the most common lubricants.
    A good quality, highly refined mineral oil would be suited for firearms. The removal of contaminants(Sulfur,waxes,etc.) and the adjustment of pH being important. Mineral oils will flow toward heat as opposed to vegetable oils that flow away from heat - watch oil in a skillet as the heat is increased and see how it tries to get away from it.
    Naturally, you want a oil for firearms that stands heat as well as cold.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ontario Honker Hunter
    replied
    99explorer, sulfur and phosphorous would not be additives to motor oil. These elements should typically be found in crude oil molecules (they are major elements found in the bodies of the organic materials that created the oil). But just because these "dangerous" elements are found in molecules does not mean they are going to create acids. That usually requires a significant modification to the molecules, typically an application of energy. And if there was any water remaining in the oil after distillation it would float to the top of the oil away from the gun metal when the oil is applied.

    Leave a comment:


  • bruisedsausage
    replied
    99, I'm well aware of what you're referring to. It's a non issue. Last I checked, to be up to ILSAC GF-5 spec it was no more than 800 ppm P. and sulfur content is negligible as well. Perhaps you might find the ingredients to some cosmoline interesting, as well as the parkerizing finish on many firearms. Much too long to get into the trivial details but the information is out there should you want to look. Thanks though for bringing that up, should someone want to research it some more. +1 to you.

    Bottom line, use the oil/lubrication that makes you feel the most at ease and delivers good performance for your uses.
    I personally will not allow WD-40 anywhere near one of my firearms, its about as good a lubricant as is weasel piss. PB Blaster is a much better choice if you want to use something remotely similar.

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  • WA Mtnhunter
    replied
    WD-40 or any other liquid in a bore not dry patched before firing risks a dangerous pressure spike if shooting max loads already.

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  • 99explorer
    replied
    I don't know about Mobil-1, but some engine oils contain additives that actually harm metal and wood finishes such as sulfur and phosphorous that attract moisture to form acids.
    In an engine, most of the moisture is evaporated out at high temperatures but with guns, that moisture just collects on surfaces.
    Proceed with caution.

    Leave a comment:


  • FirstBubba
    replied
    Just a splash of Hoppe's No. 9 adds a nice "kick" to a cup of strong coffee with a touch of nutty sweetness.

    Leave a comment:


  • 99explorer
    replied
    According to my sources, the principle ingredients of Hoppe's #9 are equal parts of kerosene and ethyl alcohol as solvents, ammonia to dissolve copper, amyl acetate for fragrance and oleic acid as a lubricant.
    Bottoms up!

    Leave a comment:


  • Greenhead
    replied
    I use Mobil-1 synthetic motor oil. The stuff works better than anything I have found, and doesn't gum up in cold weather like other lubricants can.

    WD-40 doesn't come anywhere near my guns, or anything with mechanical parts. Its great for breaking loose screws, and fine for squeeky hinges, but that is about it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Trapper Vic
    replied
    Has no one here herd of Rig grease or a Rig Rag. For the outside barrel and receiver it works great. Most gun stores sell it. Olde English (local gun store) uses them after someone handles a gun off the rack. I keep one in my truck and one in my gun cleaning box.

    Leave a comment:

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