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Someone told me I should put locktight on my scope base and and rings what exactly am I looking for and is it something i can ge

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  • DakotaMan
    replied
    Safado,
    I suspect that would work just fine. I didn't have any of those ring liners though and so I just went with good old Blue Locktite. Thanks for the info though... I may try them next time.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ontario Honker Hunter
    replied
    I wouldn't use locktight unless the rings and bases were aluminum. But then I wouldn't have anything aluminum on my guns anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhjimbo
    replied
    When i put my 6x24 burris on my Remington 700, i needed to shim the scope a little. Burris makes rings that have split ring inserts of several different thicknesses. You can use one thickness on bottom and another on top to achieve what you want and any combination fits into the steel rings. Works great and the reason i mention it is because the insert also is marr proof and gives some friction grip in the scope. Also, if your alignment is slightly off the inserts can move slightly to center everything perfectly. The have been on a few years and so far work perfect.

    Leave a comment:


  • Safado
    replied
    DakotaMan,
    Have you tried using a liner inside of the rings? I just bought a pair of Sako rings that come with a rubber or vinyl liner. I'm sure another big name ring/base maker uses them but the name escapes me. They prevent your rings from marring the finish of the scope and supposedly grip the scope a little better. I haven't shot with them yet but the concept is promising.

    Leave a comment:


  • DakotaMan
    replied
    I don't use Locktite on scope screws and have never had a problem and I shoot a lot. I'd suggest going with that first and only use Locktite if you have a problem and then only the Blue Loctite as others have said. I have had to apply a little Blue Locktite inside the rings of my .375 H&H to prevent the scope from slipping back inside the rings with real hot loads. I tried several different rings on it and just couldn't find anything that would hold them without the additive.

    Leave a comment:


  • DEER30
    replied
    Loc-Tite can be found just about everywhere. Hardware stores to Wal-Mart, so you shouldn't have a problem finding it. But I have never used it on a scope mount, nor the nail polish. I have never needed it nor have had any screws come loose. I guess I've been lucky.

    I used to use it when refletching arrow veins but I find that Quickfletch is much simpler and gives great performance, but I digress.

    I have heard that bowstring wax when applied to screw threads will prevent rust and the screws from backing out. I have done this to my bow setup and so far so good. May be another option.

    Leave a comment:


  • Clay Cooper
    replied
    Do not use Loc-Tight, use Clear nail polish. I never used Loc-Tight and never had a problem with my screws coming loose. Guess you can say I use my "Aerospace Calibrated Wrist" to apply proper torque!

    Leave a comment:


  • Pathfinder1
    replied
    Hi...


    Loc-Tite can not only be found in hardware stores, but is also a common item found in auto supply stores.


    It also has many other uses than just on scopes, too.

    Leave a comment:


  • hhack
    replied
    I would try to stay away from loctite and use a screwdriver with a torque gauge. I have had to remove screws that people used loctite on and broke not pretty, they goober up the receiver and scope with screw driver marks. I usually have to drill them out and retap to the next screw size also ugly. If you are going to use it use it in moderation just a tiny bit.

    Leave a comment:


  • Safado
    replied
    I'm with DSMbirddog in that I use blue loc-tite but only on my base screws not the ring screws.

    Leave a comment:


  • 99explorer
    replied
    Clear nail polish on the screw threads also works if you can't find Loc-Tite.

    Leave a comment:


  • FirstBubba
    replied
    With a properly ground screwdriver a a small machinist's hammer (3 or 4 oz) and no loc-tite is needed.
    Simply torque the screw as tightly as possible by hand. With the the screwdriver firmly and squarely mounted in the screw slot, apply "tightening" pressure on the screwdriver while gently but firmly tapping "down" in the screwdriver. The screws may be removed in the same manner by applying pressure with the screwdriver and gently tapping the screwdriver.
    I've mounted scopes on .340 Wby & .375 H&H in this manner with no problem.
    About 3 or 4 taps will suffice to tighten a screw, whatever is necessary for removal.
    Just remember, it's a screw, not an anvil.

    Or, if you prefer, Loc-tite. I have seen "Loc-tite" screws shoot loose.

    Leave a comment:


  • DSMbirddog
    replied
    I've used blue loctite for years on my scope mount screws. I have never used it on the screws for the rings. I've never really needed it for the rings.

    Leave a comment:


  • Glenrock
    replied
    I use loc-tite on all my scope mounts and it works well and I always use the blue loc-tite.

    Leave a comment:


  • Glenrock
    replied
    I use loc-tite on all my scope mounts and it works well and I always use the blue loc-tite.

    Leave a comment:

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