I'm gonna start reloading for a 300 win mag. (rem sendero) I plan to use federal 215 primers, reloader 22, nosler brass and 180gr nosler accubonds. I read in the hornady reloading book that I use near max loads to avoid hang fires, wierd pressure spikes ect... should I not start with the minimum load and work up to the max? Is it really important to start with the minimum load? a friend told me to start 1 grain below max charge and work up from their, is this good advice?
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I'm gonna start reloading for a 300 win mag. (rem sendero) I plan to use federal 215 primers, reloader 22, nosler brass and 180
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Severely reduced charges in magnum cases can cause the problems you mention. The bottom load in the load charts is always the place to start and work up from carefully! The loads in the reloading manuals have been carefully developed and have sufficient load density to prevent problems provided you match components exactly. Change a component and the recipe changes, just like cooking!
Use Nosler data for Nosler Bullets and Hornady data for Hornady bullets. Mixing data with different bullet shapes and jacket content, as well as cases and primers can cause pressure problems. Here is a link to Noslers selected data for the .300 Win Mag from their online load data: http://www.nosler.com/index.php?p=15&b=30cal&s=349
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Thank you Beekeeper, your advice is duly noted. I actually have the newest Nosler reloading manual and from it, I picked my components. Reloader 22 was the most accurate powder used, which makes sense because it fills the case up. I'm using all the components they use also, down to the brass.
Should I load 3 cases at min and go up .5 grain and load three more? how much should I increase the charge and how many times should I fire (3, 5???)
also, should I seat them closer to the lands than the book lists, I have a Hornady COAL gauge, how far away from the lands should they be?
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Great always use the newest data!
I like to make changes .5 grain at a time. I usually load three rounds per charge weight. Three rounds are sufficient for group testing and more than sufficient for pressure indications. (one is usually enough in that area)If you experience a sticky bolt, sticky extraction, ejector imprints on the case, or scuffs on the cartrige rim you are seeing signs of excessive pressure and need to back off.
Seat the rounds as close to the lands as your magazine will allow you. This usually results in a COL over the book specs. Best overall accuracy, velocity, pressure and performance will usually be with most bullets seated from the lands between .062" - .005". I have found the Hornady gauge to be handy piece of equipment!
The Nosler Load book has a great section on this info. I think it is written by Lane Simpson, great writer and cartridge developer.
Good Luck!
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Beekeeper stole my answers- darn it! ;-)
But he/she is RIGHT ON TARGET...never start at the top of the velocity rating when starting to work up a new load. Always start on the conservative side...your senses and your limbs (if not your life) depend on it!
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Beekeeper gave excellent advice. I would add that try to test your loads when you have plenty of time to allow your barrel to cool between groups. Use a chronograph. Even the cheap ones work well. Different guns will give different results even with the same load. Without a speed meter you are only guessing about velocity. Doublecheck your powder charges. A bad Dillon electronic powderscale nearly caused me to blow a good rifle. RCBS, Hornady, Wilson and no doubt some others make good stuff and back their gear. I got rid of all my "Blue" pot medal and plastic.
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Yep, good advice has been given. I usually start at 3 grains below max and work up half grain at a time. I go for accuracy not speed so don't be surprised if your rifle likes a less than max load. And DO allow your barrel to cool between load changes, it may take a few more trips to the range but who cares at least your outside.
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