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If I were to buy the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme deluxe reloading kit at cabelas for $737.99 delivered to my door, aside by the ob

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  • If I were to buy the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme deluxe reloading kit at cabelas for $737.99 delivered to my door, aside by the ob

    If I were to buy the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme deluxe reloading kit at cabelas for $737.99 delivered to my door, aside by the obvious ; lead, primers, cases, powder, and dies. What would anyone recommend for either extras or additional tools I may need? Most specifically I want to tune a .270 WSM. I also have a planned purchase of a .25-06 due in this winter that I would like to make a pet load for. Any and all recommendations would be welcomed. Thanks.

  • #2
    A few additional details, I would also load some .44 mag.

    And as a half hearted disclaimer; I have reloaded before, maybe 200-300 rounds, with one of the kindest and most willing idiots you'd ever meet. I would certainly ask multiple annoying and simple questions on F&S weekly, but would like to think I wouldn't get myself in too much trouble as I have done it before.


    • #3
      I think you are spending WAY too much money to get into reloading. Pick up a press on E-bay. A RCBS Junior would do you fine in my opinion. Order the dies brand new. Maybe the scale too (but a decent scale is dirt cheap even new). A used powder measure should work fine. Don't get a fancy multi-stage tool unless you're reloading hundreds of rounds per week.


      • #4
        Try Mid-way for dies and powers and buy Two loading Books.


        • #5
          You're probably quite right OH. Should I become addicted to it I didn't want to double spend or be limited on what I can do with my set-up. That said, I'm not real sure what a good set-up can do that a more simple one cannot do. Thanks for the info, any more input on brands of dies and tools etc?


          • #6
            Thanks Treestand- I'll look into mid-way. Any suggestions on manuals in particular?


            • #7

              WAY too much $$$!

              The "Explorer" kit is $259.99.

              Honk is right! Get on ebay, etc! You'll find all kinds of equipment much chesper!

              Basics include.
              Press- I'd go with the Rock Chucker. The difference in leverage and ovetall strength is worth the little bit extra.
              Scales- within the last three months, I've bought 2 scales. One RCBS scale was only $12!
              Powder measure - (dump)
              Manual - there is absolute TONS of info online!
              Loading block. - not a must, but nice to have.
              Primimg tool - again, online they are plentiful!
              Case trimmer- necessary? No. Nice to have? Yes.
              Dies - online again. Dies are hard to ruin unless you let your dog poop in the die box like Mikey did!
              The only problem with used dies is finding "exactly" what you want.
              There are neck sizer dies, full length dies and SB (small base) dies for semi-autos. BTW! Before buying used dies, make sure they contain the "correct" shell holder unless you already have it.
              A lube pad or spray lube is an absolute must.
              For your .44 Mag dies, I'd go with a "carbide" sizer die. No lube needed.
              Deburring tool. Nice but not necessary.

              As time goes on, you'll discover little things that you can add to your layout.
              Just start with basics.


              • #8
                If I had to do it over, I would look at the quick change dies and press from I think Hornady, Adjust the dies once, and you can change calibers in seconds and get exactly the same dimension as the last time you reloaded that caliber. Setting up a die takes a little time - I reload for 17 calibers so it would be a great benefit for me.
                The other thing is simplify your weight range of bullets for each caliber. I know you can go from 110 to 220 in '06, but in reality it is better if you pick one weight and stick with it for a particular gun. Reason being, with multiple weights, each time you go to the range you will have to re zero your scope or sights, big waste of time and ammo. My suggestion is I would pick the 'best' bullet for a particular caliber, as well as powder,(each caliber has a ideal weight) and stick with it. For instance, for my 6.5X55 I would pick a 140gr,then, if I need a heavier bullet, I would go to my 30-06 in say 165gr. Heavier still, I would go to my 45/70. This way you learn just exactly how each rifle is going to perform using only one bullet for each rifle. Note: you would use regular bullets for practice and premium bullets for hunting. Same thing with handguns. JMHO, but that is how I would proceed if I had it to do all over again.
                All the major component companies have excellent quality and I use them interchangeably. Stay basic to start, you can always use beginning equipment even as you become more experienced.
                Manuals, I like Hornady, Nosler, Lee, Lyman, and some Speer. I compare a few of them when looking at a load to develop.
                Last, start a log - examples are in some of the loading manuals. Caliber, quantity in batch, case mfg and lot #, Primer-lot #, Powder,lot,quantity, number times fired and trimmed, bullet name and weight and OAL. If you chronograph them, enter that too. Designate lot with your own numbering system - i use year and load that year - like 13-16 for today.
                Good luck, stay safe. Jim


                • #9
                  In the pursuit of consistency and accuracy, you can empty a checking account into the effort. Your initial investment is formidable, and you'll have covered many of the bases, but you can spend much less and still be well equipped so choose carefully and shop patiently for the best prices.
                  I use RCBS presses (a Rock Chucker and a Partner) in tandem, often using the Rock Chucker to FL resize or neck size and the Partner to seat the bullets. I assure you, the Partner is unnecessary in this process; it can all be accomplished handily on the Rock Chucker. I use RCBS and Redding dies, and I'm pleased with my results.
                  A case concentricity gauge is useful, but not necessary. Cases have to be trimmed occasionally, and that's a consideration. Keep accurate records regarding what components have gone into what load, and refine your loads by using what works and avoiding what doesn't deliver acceptable accuracy. Have fun with the process of experimentation and load testing. Break the process (of handloading) into manageable time frames so it doesn't become tedious and boringly repetitive. Save your best targets and compete against those for improvement.
                  If possible, enlist the guidance of an experienced handloader who can guide you through some of the processes. Enjoy yourself, and ask as many questions as may develop.


                  • #10

                    The absolute CHEAPEST way to get into reloading is the Lee Loader!
                    Beware! If you're shooting a bolt gun, no problem.
                    They don't work so well for single shot and auto loaders.
                    Lee Loaders only neck size. Single shots require full length sizing. Autos require small base dies.
                    Bullets, powder, primers, cases, a fiberglass mallet, a case lube pad and a $40 Lee Loader and you're in bidness!

                    I started with a Lee Loader in .41 Rem Mag. A box of 50 rounds cost $18!


                    • #11
                      I concur that the RockChucker Jr is all you need.

                      1. Case tumbler to clean cases.
                      2. RCBS 1500 powder measure/dispenser... you can live without but it is WONDERFUL... use it to weigh cases too for supreme accuracy. You need a powder funnel too.
                      3. Lee case trimmer with collet for each cartridge. The RCBS handle bends and is a pain. Stick the case in your drill for automation.
                      4. RCBS neck swager to smooth sharp cut on necks.
                      5. Forrester neck turner with collet for each cartridge. Use the drill here too.
                      6. Primer hole swager (most holes are punched inward making a nasty mess inside the case).
                      7. Primer pocket cleaner. You won't need a reamer unless you intend to convert military 30-06 to 25-06.

                      I recommend a Hornady manual to get started. You can get great info for the Amax (long range) and VMax (varmints and targets) and SST/Interbond for game.

                      You need to start a little low and step your loads up for each bullet anyway so you can easily extrapolate to Noslers, Sierras, Speers, Barners, and Bergers of the same weight and contour.

                      I suggest starting with IMR 4831, IMR 4350 and Reloader 22. You can add more later if needed. I'd recommend starting with the VMax bullet in 75g and 90g for the 25-06 and 100g and 120g for the 7mm. Think SPEEED and ACCURACY for distant and running varmints. Then move to the heavy Amax and Bergers for ultra long range. These bullets will show you the end-to-end range of these rifles. Best of luck!


                      • #12
                        Oops .270 WSM... my bad but you get the idea

                        Also I forgot... get a bullet puller too... you will need it.

                        Pet loads in 25-06:
                        75g VMax over 58g IMR 4831 @ 3750 fps
                        90g Sierra Game King over 50g IMR 4064 @ 3600 fps
                        100g Interbond or Sierra Game King over 53g of IMR 4831 @ 3350 fps
                        115g Berger over 58.5g RL 25 @ 3250 fps

                        Start lower; step your way up.


                        • #13
                          Jhjimbo- Ed Palumbo- First Bubba & Dakota Man- I'm a note taker and very grateful for all your insight. I'll be ordering the set-up in the next couple of weeks and look forward to using it and asking more questions. Should you have more opinions on it all, I would love to hear from you.
                          Thanks again- Pray


                          • #14
                            Jhjimbo- Ed Palumbo- First Bubba & Dakota Man- I'm a note taker and very grateful for all your insight. I'll be ordering the set-up in the next couple of weeks and look forward to using it and asking more questions. Should you have more opinions on it all, I would love to hear from you.
                            Thanks again- Pray


                            • #15
                              Another though... I suggest neck sizing only for accuracy. So you need to get neck sizing dies. It is easier (no lube required) and much more accurate to neck size. You just can't swap bullets with buddies because the reloads are sized for only YOUR rifle.

                              There IS a risk in critical hunting situations that your cartridge or chamber get a contaminant (dirt or ice) that could prevent a round from chambering because the chamber fit is PERFECT. I've never had that happen in my life but I use Mauser actions most of the time and they will crush anything into the chamber, resizing on their own if need be.




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