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This question goes back to my previous question about knife sharpening. What knifes do you guys use for gutting, skinning, etc..

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  • This question goes back to my previous question about knife sharpening. What knifes do you guys use for gutting, skinning, etc..

    This question goes back to my previous question about knife sharpening. What knifes do you guys use for gutting, skinning, etc..? I've always used Buck knives but they do not hold an edge very well after you use it a few times. I know most of you hate Buck knives.

  • #2
    for skinning I use whats called a Wyoming Skinning knife. It works great and you can either sharpen or just throw the blade away and replace it after about 7 or 8 deer. My usually lasts about 3-4 elk before it needs to be touched up on a wet stone. For gutting my gerber 4 inch lock blade my small buck or any one of my Schrade old timers all about 3-4 inch blades. I even used a simple razor blade knife used to cut carpet one year to skin an elk that worked good to although the blade was very flimsy. As for sharpening I use a system by Smith where the blade is clamped in a small device and guide rods give you the exact angle every time works wonders. I do agree I like my older Buck over my newer one the steel seems way different. But gerber has some products I bought my kids and I love them and have purchased 3 in the last year.

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    • #3
      For gutting and skinning, or even doing the gutless quartering method I have been using a Havalon knife. It has disposable blades. I use a long filet knife to debone.

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      • #4
        I use a 1930s Ka-Bar drop point 4.5" blade with stacked leather handle. It is a great all round knife for gutting OR skinning and holds a nice sharp blade well. Its steel will pit so care must be used storing it well oiled (DON'T LEAVE IT BLOODY). I DO NOT like using an extremely sharp knife when gutting an animal. If you're not real experienced field dressing big game, I SINCERELY recommend avoiding the razor sharp knives. It's just overkill that's liable to get you injured and mess up your hunting trip (especially if you're a bit excited). Skinning and butchering is another matter. However, again, if you don't have a lot of experience (and I mean a LOT), then using a razor sharp knife for skinning will probably cause you more problems than necessary. Much easier to ding the meat or hide with a real sharp blade. Also, if you do use an overly sharp knife for skinning, make sure the carcass is stable (i.e. someone is holding onto the off side to keep it from spinning and moving while you're working). For me, real sharp knives only have merit on the butcher table. Boning or fillet knives serve the best purpose there although a large butcher knife is usually useful for a few things. A fillet knife is about the worst thing to use when skinning.

        For dressing birds a fillet knife is all I use although I'm sure a good pocket knife would work as well or better. Long blade on fillet knife is ideal for peeling the lungs out of the rib cage, especially on little birds like huns. I keep the blade sharp but not real sharp. Just not needed and if it's not needed it is simply an unnecessary hazard. The knife I use for this (and I use it A LOT) is, believe it or not, a cheap dollar store knock off. Holds a blade great. Who woulda thunk it! My Martini fillet knife is as good or better but it's usually tucked away in my tackle box and I just don't bother getting it out (anyway the dollar store one resides in the kitchen where I do the birds). The only drawback to those fine Martini knives (certainly the best blade out there for the money!) is the leather sheath which gets wet all the time when fishing and then becomes terrible stinky. Sometimes when I open my tackle box the smell will about knock my head off!

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        • #5
          Kershaw makes great gutting/skinning knives

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          • #6
            Custom damascus skinner I made (pic on profile)

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            • #7
              Don't let anybody fool you, the sharper your blade, the less likely you are to hurt yourself with a knife!
              That said, my dad used to tell me when I had trouble sharpening a pocket knife, "It's not a razor, it's not supposed to shave!"
              That said! I prefer a plain carbon steel blade. I'm carrying a single blade Case given to me by an old (since deceased) friend. I've no idea how much game I've cleaned with it.
              A good Case is hard to beat, easy (or relatively so) to sharpen, holds an edge well, carry's easily in the pocket and very handy. I keep a ceramic stick in my "deer" pack. A couple of swipes and I'm quickly back in business.

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              • #8
                I've got a Buck in my pocket right now. Not too hard to sharpen (although I use a whetstone) and it holds it's edge pretty good.

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                • #9
                  Bubba, I had the opposite problem with my dad, he has to tell me NOT to make a knife razor sharp. My edge test is: if it can shave the hair off your arm, you're nearly there!

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                  • #10
                    Yeah I used to sharpen knives for my mother and grandmother. The first time she cut her self cutting a potato against her thumb not realizing I had sharpened it I was told no more sharpening.! In my experience a sharp knife is safer, however no knife is safe if not used correctly. I sharpen using my witrock until I can shave.

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                    • #11
                      Bucks used to use steel so hard that they were hard to sharpen. They softened the steel so they would be easier to sharpen and now they just aren't the same quality. I know this might not be the most popular opinion, but I hate Gerber. I can't stand them. They are weak, break easy and aren't worth the money. I had a knife fall apart, a hatchet break and my Bear grylls I traded for was stolen before I ever had a chance to try it. However this is my personal opinion from my experience and others might have another opinion.

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                      • #12
                        mspl

                        My dad was referring to "straight razor" sharp! Yes, if a blade will take the hair off your arm, it'll work just fine on game.

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                        • #13
                          I have several Buck knives but I don't use them on game. More for work where they take a lot of abuse cutting sod etc.
                          I like a short drop point blade about 3-4" long. I have two custom made ones that I bought at town fairs in Colorado and one commercial one whose name I cannot remember. They are all pretty much the same pattern.
                          I use one for gutting and another for skinning and quartering with one as a backup.

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                          • #14
                            Buck Vanguard for me.

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                            • #15
                              OK Bubba, you got me there! I don't think I could do straight razor sharp!

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