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What else do you need for a cleaning kit after you have the equipment to clean the gun? examples of what kind of oil or lubricat

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  • What else do you need for a cleaning kit after you have the equipment to clean the gun? examples of what kind of oil or lubricat

    What else do you need for a cleaning kit after you have the equipment to clean the gun? examples of what kind of oil or lubrication

  • #2
    If you've purchased a cleaning kit, you're off to a good start, but you may have different tastes in solvent or lubricant, determined by trial and error. Under normal circumstances, you really don't have to lubricate heavily. Keep a good supply of bristle brushes and patches on hand, since the quantity supplied in a kit is simply a start. Q-tips, old toothbrushes, pipe cleaners and other items are helpful. Use whatever you need to get into and clean the tight spaces, ports and crevices. As for solvents, I still seem to rely more heavily on Hoppe's No. 9, but I use others as well. I use oils sparingly, and I can't remember the last time I used grease or Lubriplate on a sporting firearm. Enjoy your rifle; taking care of it should be part of the "ritual" of shooting, and the time we took to clean our equipment was a welcomed opportunity to enjoy conversation with my son and daughter.

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    • #3
      The one place you might actually want grease is on any threaded magazine tube cap or choke threads.

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      • #4
        Edward J. Palumbo

        Do you purchase any type of Hoppe's No. 9 or is there a specific type?

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        • #5
          EJP is spot on as always. Lubricants and solvents depend on your style of cleaning. A couple of things that I am pretty strict about are one piece cleaning rods and bore guides. One piece rods and bore guides prevent damage to the bore. I try to limit my brushing so I use more solvents than Hoppe's No. 9. I use Hoppes to remove carbon and lead fouling, but I use Barnes solvent to remove copper fouling. I use a lot of patches and do very little brushing, but that's a personal thing. I run an oiled patch after cleaning to prevent corrosion. I use Hoppe's No. 9, Barnes C-10, Butch's Bore Shine and a spray product similar to "Gum Out" for cars that removes, powder, lead and copper but will damage the bore if left in too long.

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          • #6
            I use LPS#2 in an aerosol can to squirt oil into hard-to-reach places, and I keep an oiled cloth in a plastic bag handy for wiping down metal surfaces after handling.
            I wish there were a small tin oil can with a long neck on the market for placing just one drop where you want it, but they all seem to come in short-necked plastic bottles. I use an eyedropper.

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            • #7
              I use kerosene and a snake first to get out powder residue (hoppies no 9 is 70% kerosene) Then i use a jag with an oiled patch with J-B non embedding bore cleaner. J-B has a paste for regular steel and another for stainless. I finish with a patch with rem oil for storage.
              Brownells has a new lubricant called Friction Defense Xtreme Gun Oil. Temperature range of -100F to +550F
              On sale right now for $7.99 for 4oz aerosol .

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              • #8
                I like Barnes' CR-10 as a copper solvent. It is easy to use and takes out copper fouling that others leave behind. It is quick and easy to use. I haven't found another that cleans a bore so completely and so easily.

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