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This might be a dumb question but I thought I heard somewhere that you can get a foot pedal for a hand control trolling motor. I

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  • This might be a dumb question but I thought I heard somewhere that you can get a foot pedal for a hand control trolling motor. I

    This might be a dumb question but I thought I heard somewhere that you can get a foot pedal for a hand control trolling motor. Is that true? Thanks

  • #2
    I've never heard or seen one. seems like it would be difficult to cable the tiller control, more trouble than it's worth. Foot controlled models can be found for little more than high output tiller models. I find bow mounted tiller models are better at times than foot controled. most all salt water models are tiller.

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    • #3
      Never saw one either? You can get the foot pedal wireless to operate any where on the boat. That's pretty neat.

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      • #4
        You can get the foot pedals of course, but with the hand control I don't know.

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        • #5
          if i were you i'd just rig one up.

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          • #6
            I have built plenty, but I do not know of any that are just add on. The best system is to get two hand control motors and mount one on each side of the boat. Then you can control them with switches under your foot and steer the boat the same way a bulldozer steers, or the way a handi-cap power chair steers. When I build them with two motors, I like them placed at about 1/3 of the lenght of the boat from the bow. I like to set them toed in at thirty degrees each. With this set up, you can spin the boat around within its own length and still do anything you can do with a regular motor.

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            • #7
              Santa, we've always called that the twin screw. Works great while sliding a 200 ton barge loaded with benzene in to dock or while shooting locks to and from rivers. Twin screw really lets ya make the boat "walk the dog". Been wanting to do exactly as you stated for my flounder rig, rather than a noisy air motor.

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              • #8
                I'll hook the controls for both trolling motors on my flounder rig in a aircraft type joystick control such as these. Then I could spin on a dime without having to work more than one control.

                http://www.ultra-msi.com/products/grip_controls/index.html

                A Model 465 two axis miniature joystick control, a trigger switch and two push button switches. A variety of switches can be incorporated into this "D" position, including a push button, slide switch, toggle switch, 4-way trim.

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                • #9
                  Cgull, while working for Lew Childre, we built them and experimented with them for four years. I thought he was going to start selling them, but as it turned out, I was just building for him and the rest of the R&D crew to use and enjoy in the name of experimenting. The best ones I built used a motor above water with a flexable shaft to the propeller simular to the old Minnkota. I used all SS shafting and run the bi-directional cable in a silent non-metalic inner housing so that they were silent both above and below water. I also designed and built custom 100% weedless propellers for them that in the last 37 years,(I still have my original protypes), I have not been able to get weeds, fishing line or anything else wrap or tangle on. You do not even have to put them in reverse to clear them. But they were patended by Lew and I do not know what became of the project or rights after he died.

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                  • #10
                    Cgull, For a foot switch, I use four cuttler hammer # USA 0343 doulbe pole double throw monentary push button switches without a center off. I make a plate out of 1/8" aluminum with a 10-32 threaded hole in the center. Then I make mounts to put a switch upside down at each corner with the button 7/16" off the bottom. Then I make a 1/4" aluminum plate that fits on top off the 1/8 base, but under the switch buttons. I drill a hole in the middle and counter sink to match a 10-32 flat head screw. I glue an AS568A-309 "O" ring to the bottom of the 1/4 plate centered over the hole. I then slide the 1/4" plate under the switches and put a flat head 10-32 screw in it just tight enough to keep the 1/4" plate from activating any switches in the nutral position. The palte will gimble on the "O" ring (hinge in any direction). You push down on the front and it will active the two rear switches. Push down on any corner and it will active the opposite corner switch. Silly me, I forgot to say that you were going to stand on this 1/4 " plate and it needs to be as big or bigger than your shoe. With the "O" ring as a pivit point, when you stand up and put all your weight on the center of the plate, the switches will not work for safty. But if you release the weight on ony spot of plate, the opposite switch will work. You end up with your foot less than an inch off the floor. You do not need relays with the cuttler hammer switches so you wire direct to the motors. I will draw you a blue print and wiring diagram if you would like it.

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